Sunday, October 23rd, 1898, Montreal, Canada

Book No. 8 commenced, Sunday, October 23/98, in the Queen’s Hotel, Montreal,, Canada.

Wednesday Oct 19^th. I left Simcoe, Ontario, at 8:30 a.m. It was fair but dull & not a bad prospect for travelling, a shade frosty. The train was 17 minutes late. I photo’d Sarah & Mr. Forster at the station just before leaving & as it was the last opportunity, I hope it will be good. The maple trees everywhere are now assuming their autumn tints & they are pictures to look upon, & so many avenues. The variety of tints are lovely. I did admire them, & here abouts the trees have not yet cast many leaves. The car in which I travelled was shunted at Jarvis onto the Toronto train, & left there at 8:45. Jarvis, you’ll remember, was Sarah‘s address for years. She then lived with her uncle at the “Old Homestead”, but on his death, she removed to Simcoe. I don’t think I told you that in every car on American railroads there is a case fixed on each inside end, & contains axe, hammer & saw. The need for this is, I suppose, not so apparent, as in early days when burning timber on the track sides was necessary for clearing, & timber sometimes falling across the rails. I dare say crossing the Rockies on CP Ry. trees are sometimes found on the paths as the[y] come down the mountain sides & land on the rails.

On the way to Toronto were many passengers & not a few ministers, who seemed to be either returning from visits or going to some meetings. Well, I saw 3 sitting behind me & I thought I would ask about Turnbull. I walked along & asked “were they Presbyterians?”, “Yes!” Then I apologised for intrusion, said I was also a Presbyterian and from the Old Country – no sooner said that, room was made for me & pressed to journey with them, & the Revd. George McLennan of Jarvis knew the Revd. Logan Turnbull [8:2] intimately, & he has a church only 12 miles from Simcoe, & he was sure Mr. Turnbull would be disappointed when he knew I, a native of his own town, had been so near & not called on him. I gave him my card, wrote a few lines on the back, & he said he would give it him the first time they met. He said Turnbull was getting on fine & had a loyal country congregation. This Mr. McLennan was going on to Toronto. The other 2 got out at Hamilton & I broke my journey here, & they were kind enough to give me some hints how to spend the 2 hours, 10:30 to 12:30, so we parted.

I did enjoy Hamilton, quite a panorama as you enter it, a lovely situation on the Lake Ontario & a water frontage 3 parts of a circle called Hamilton Bay. Much water traffic is carried on there. Well, I made my way to the cars & took one to the foot of the mountain up King St. & James St. for the inclined railway. Soon I arrived through fine streets, avenues of maple trees all in colour, ascended the incline railway & was soon on top, & then went on top of the “Mountain Hotel”, from where a beautiful view (the finest about Hamilton) is obtained of the whole city, quays, bay & lake, & what a city of trees. Just a garden to look down upon & many churches with fine spires. The picture was one of indescribable beauty towards the bay & looking behind over the level ground on hill top is one of such rich fertility, & pastoral & wooded beauty, it quite charmed my eyes. A magnificent building rich in architecture is close at hand, sorry to say an asylum, but for situation & beauty almost impossible to surpass. I was on top of hotel as one of the church clocks struck 11, & I stayed gazing, & the longer I stood & viewed the less inclination had I to descend. The air was so deliciously fine, I inflated my lungs vigorously. This point was 550 feet above lake level.

[8:3] I de[s]cended & on getting outside the hotel, my eyes were again fixed to the picture below, & here I lingered long, wishing rather to view such beauty than lounge about the streets. I watched the elevator as it moved up & down with its freight, passengers, & horses & waggons, & I snapped a view which I feel sure will be good. The incline is 700 feet from the base with a rise of 700 feet. I got on board the car at 11:40 & de[s]cended to the street, & there took electric car for city center. I went to post office & wrote 2 cards, one to Willie & one to Sarah. It was now noon. Instead of taking car to the station, I walked through the principal streets & got to the Grand Trunk Station in good time, & there left by the 12:40 for Toronto full of passengers, & arrived at Toronto on time, 1:30, Union Depot. The journey was very pleasant, now a fine day as also was it beautifully fine all the way to Hamilton, improved as the day wore on. We skirted the beautiful bay of Hamilton as we got outside of Stuart St. depot, which is really on the bay front & the rail is close, not 15 feet from the water’s edge for some distance, & a beautiful scene it is with such a grand sheet of water on the right side. Further on, we came into a great fruit-growing district, the rail skirting orchards, apples in abundance, some orchards the apples laying in large piles ready to cart away, grape vines, rasps, peach trees, currants, &c. Fields, not gardens, these are produced in. I should have liked you to seen [sic] these sights between Hamilton & Toronto, & the maple trees everywhere, the tints so pretty, forming a coloured picture. I felt sorry as the journey neared completion, it was a quick train but as the cars are much glazed you get a clear view ahead, which lends to the scene greatly. [8:4] As we approached Toronto a fine view of the Great Lake opens out & you could fancy yourself nearing Berwick just as you catch the sea between Scremerston & Spittal, only on a level with the shore, & in the distance nothing but water then the pretty Hanlen’s Island[1] comes in view. This is but a short distance off Toronto, & ferry goes across to it, a great resort for the people, then the train gradually runs into the depot, which is not very far from the harbour. On arrival I went to Walker House Hotel again within 3 minutes of the depot. After dinner I went out to view again, posted at post office 1 spool & a card to Mary, also packet of views, & 1 each to Mr. Leask & Revd. Jasper Sinclair. I took car & had a run through the city as far as High Park & back, & by now it was nearing 5:30. I made my way to hotel & had supper at 6 o’clock, & at same table chatted with a Mr. Bayne & Mr. Reeve. Mr. Reeve afterwards took me to his club & shewed me through & was very kind. They were both Presbyterians & attended the St. Andrew’s Church. I described it to you on my last visitation when I stayed the first Sunday. Their Minister Dr. McCahan (I think this is right) has just accepted a call to Chicago. He had only been a year or more with them & the congregation is sore. They are going to look to Scotland or England for a successor but I told them to be generous & let us keep our good men. I told you what a fine church it was & the large congregation I saw. You will see a view of it in the Toronto souvenir. The Governor’s Residence is opposite on King & Simcoe Sts. We did not stay 20 minutes at the club, during which I was introduced to several members, one of whom was Mr. Casse MP, & he was enjoying billiards. He chatted a few minutes & expressed himself [8:5] pleased meeting one from the Old Country.

On retiring to hotel, I went to my room & wrote a few lines explanatory to the Revd. Robt. Atkinson, Berlin, Ontario (Mr Sinclair’s acquaintance) & enclosed the letter of introduction Mr. S. gave me. He likely will write to Tweedmouth.

Friday morning, Oct 21^st. A dull morning. I got up early & had bath & breakfast, & went to post office at 8 o’clock, & posted a packet of large photos: engines which Matt gave me, also souvenir of Chicago, & some small photos, & I hope these will be delivered as they are fine mementos. I have so much photographic matter &c. that I am glad to get any surplus mailed on. On leaving p. office about 8:20, I made for hotel via St. Andrew’s Church, & the governor’s residence, & after a good look at both, soon got to hotel, paid my bill, & porter took my Gladstone to the depot close by, & I left at 9:10 for Ottawa per CP Ry. Rain began to fall as we got away, & it rained incessantly all the journey. It’s a fine agricultural country for a great distance on the way, but towards Smith’s Falls, where we had to change for Ottawa, it is poor land: very stoney & rocky like great up heavals, much bush & lots of land uncleared, tho’ the trees has [sic] in lots of areas been fired. Water standing on the land, seemingly been much rain. Farmers were working away in the rain, plowing &c., & some leading mangle wurzel,[2] great crops of it to be seen (turnips were plentiful between Hamilton & Toronto).

Familiar names en route attracted my attention: Peterboro’ & not unlike our city except for the churches & spires, but a fine place, river & [8:6] manufactories. Then Tweed, a pretty little town & a fine river runs through it, but the land was very rocky here & not good for agriculture. Then Sheffield we passed, quite at home like. Sharbot Lake, a pretty sheet of water studded with fine islands, like Loch Lomond. We were nearly 1 hour late here. A new engine was drawing our train, 4 men on it, testing, & now & again the journal boxes[3] got hot & had to draw up to cool. We arrived at Smith’s Falls at 4:40, 1 hour & 10 minutes late, & here we changed for Ottawa. We were due at Ottawa at 5 o’clock, & I had prospected entering it by daylight, & felt a little disappointed as it was 6:35 when we got in & 1 ho. 35 minutes late, & raining heavily. (Hudson’s Dry Soap advertisement plates were on every station.) The houses,[4] to[o], were the usual type: wooden, or as they style, frame houses, & some are “veneered”, that is, wood frame & outside one course of bricks. Simcoe had some of these but chiefly wooden. I got the Grand Union Hotel porter at the station, & as the elec. car runs right to the street platform, had not many yards to walk from the train & took it, soon arriving at the hotel, & was not long in being comfortably settled & at dinner. Retired soon to rest & had a good night.

On Saturday morning, I got up in good time, had bath & breakfast. It was raining, “even down pour”. At 9:30 I looked out but still wet, temperature outside door 49°, inside hall, 69°, warmed by radiators, hot air or steam. By 10 o’clock it somewhat ceased. I ventured out & just opposite was the office of the Canadian [8:7] Atlantic C.J. Smith Cook’s agency. I went & enquired for letters & papers, none there. I wasn’t at all disappointed. I had written here from Simcoe soon after my arrival there asking to forward. None had been there then either.

I had to go to stationer to get this diary book & got a souvenir of Ottawa, which I afterward posted, as also one of Detroit (& one of Chicago for Matty at Kentstone), also a parcel of developed films & some prints. I went to Parliament Houses, not 3 minutes’ walk from hotel, & a magnificent pile these are, as you’ll see from the souvenir, open to all. I sat in the Speaker’s chair & viewed the chamber, also went into the galleries, reading room, library: a most beautiful hall, circular & very artistically furnished with galleries for books, statuary too, at points which are prominent. I thought much of this department. Several persons were in here, so also the reading room, a separate & by no means pretentious room. I mounted the tower, the clock in which struck 11, 287 steps up, a great sacrifice for me to climb stairs. I dislike the operation & these made me perspire that my under garments were actually wet ere I got to top. I had my over coat on as I feared rain again, however once up I soon consoled myself as the view from such a height, 210 feet from the base & bank on which the buildings stand (edge of fine river Ottawa) & 270 from the river. Luckily it was fine & clear, & I felt that I should have missed a grand sight had I not ventured. Oh, what magnificent panorama of the surrounding country & the [8:8] with[5] the great waterways intersecting the Grand Ottawa river, so wide & full, the Rideau river & the Rideau Canal, the great stacks of wood on the river bank opposite on the Quebec Province – Hull is the name of that side & it’s well named, as our Hull is a great timber city. The many grand churches too, & Catholic Cathedral, & other institutions stand out prominent, & open spaces & parks, & Government House in a fine park. Also a grand bridge in the distance which crosses the Ottawa & used for railway traffic, then Chaudiere Falls close at hand. A prettier scene is difficult to find & I regretted no friend was with me to join in the pleasure. I did not hurry but gazed & feasted my eyes till I felt somewhat cold, & at ¼ to 12 I left for the bottom & it was pretty warm work going down. I don’t like stairs. The buildings and grounds beautifully laid out. On 2 points of view are mounds with pretty round shelters & seats within, & from these can be seen the beautiful river which lies below & running swiftly. All the ground is on the right bank, & fine tree-clad cliffs they are. In the grounds is a section of a fir tree grown in British Columbia (I told you that Vancouver & thereabouts was celebrated for big timber). It was a slice cut through the tree & hooped – 8 feet dia. & it stood 300 feet high – 566 years of age. It was 183 years old when Columbus discovered America, & the age can be verified by counting the “rings”. These particulars I copied from a printed board nailed to the face. It stands on its edge & covered in.

[8:9] The grounds have electric lights throughout, & down the bank through the trees, a wooden step road leads down to the river. The Rideau Canal runs between the grounds & another portion of banks, & a natural gorge forms the canal channel. It has 8 locks within a very short length & reaches the canal level just between 2 bridges. The post office is built overlooking the spot, a # v shaped space, & the PO at the wide end, roads running off at each side: one up to the Parliament Grounds, the other to the main street. Rowan trees with berries & maple trees are plentiful about the grounds & banks & avenues in the streets, also many poplar trees I saw. The time gun, noon, went off just as I was walking in the grounds, & as I wasn’t expecting it, I got a shock. Sparks & Wellington are the two principal Sts. I took electric car to view the Chaudiere Falls, about 10 minutes’ ride, & a fine sight these are, & the rapids both above & below. You see both from the car as it crosses from Ottawa to Hull, & the terminal is just at bridge end, so I walked back across the bridge, had a fine view, & took car back to Government House. I walked through the grounds, not a great distance, about 5 minutes, & soon got to a very plain building, 2 soldiers & a policeman on duty who were very kind in giving me information. I signed the visitors’ book, then was shewn the hall & a reception room. Lord[6] & Lady[7] Aberdeen leave for home next month & packing was going on. The previous night [8:10] they had given a brilliant dinner to Lord Herschell & other notabilities. I did not linger about & soon left as I had not much time to waste, so I left & retraced my steps to the gate – a meaner entrance drive & house & grounds you can’t conceive for such notable personage as Governor General, & here is where Lord Lorne and Lord Dufferin also lived. The residence at Toronto is much finer, & then it is not to be compared with our English noble mansions. Wynyard is palatial compared to the best of them. Just as I was leaving the house, a very nice man, who I expect was a clerk in the house, walked to the gate with me. He was going into town & he said he had not seen Haddo House but he supposed the grounds there were very fine, as also the mansion. These buildings & ground had originally belonged a merchant of Ottawa, & the government bought them & has done little since at them, & as the governor’s term is limited, none of them concerns themselves about improving the place. I named Gen. Bogue but he did not know him, but had heard his name mentioned. He thought he was in Scotland. He took car for city. I walked to view some falls. Well worth the viewing: really grand & only diminutive Niagara, mist rising up & plenty water. A fall of, I should say, 40 or 50 feet & called Rideau Falls, & here a big timber mill gets power. I didn’t tell you that the electric power for the cars & city lights is [8:11] got from the Chaudiere Falls, & all the saw mills get their power from the water falls too. Water everywhere & no lack of power to supply any number of mills or light cities. Canada for water & electricity, aye, & Canada for turkeys. They are abundant on almost every farm you can see passing by railway. I had a grand point of view of these falls by going through the saw mill yard, which is permissible to all visitors, & I stood admiring the scene, the river emptying into the Ottawa over precipiece [sic], wonderful natural beauty & never ceasing. It was now 12:40, so I made my way back, joined car at these mills, & on way back, the house where the eminent Sir John Macdonald lived was pointed out to me. It is presently occupied by Major General Hilton, a very poor house indeed & very bad roads leading to the entrance, which is but 30 yards to the door. Thos. Furnesse’s at Foggy Furz is a mansion to it. I went to hotel & had dinner, & prepared to leave by the 3:50 p.m. for Montreal. Ottawa is a pretty place: 50 odd thousand, great part of the population are French, & you hear it spoken at all ends, on cars, in hotel, on trains & in shops, & Frenchmen occupy positions too.

A fine bridge is being erected by the CPR spanning the Ottawa, & near the canal I’ve mentioned. [8:12] The station to which it will lead is the one I left for Montreal & runs by the side of the Rideau Canal, & only a short distance from the PO & Parliament Bdgs.

I got away at 3:50 comfortably, & with a good impression of Ottawa, & proud I had been privileged to visit it. It only took 2:50 minutes to journey to Montreal. Some pretty scenery along the route but water standing on the land all the route. Much bush & useless land is about here & seemingly not over good for farming, tho’ here & there good homesteads are to be seen, some good rivers too are crossed. I got the first glimpse of new moon, tho’ well developed, just after leaving Caledonia Springs & at 5:15 p.m. I hope we may have some of her “shine” on our homeward passage. On nearing Montreal, it was getting dark but I could see the St. Lawrence on our right & glittering under the moonshine. We arrived at 6:45 at Windsor St. Station CPR & I made for the Queen’s Hotel, a very good house indeed, & soon had dinner, got a good room. Had a walk out as it was fair & moonlight but the streets were very, very wet & muddy, very throng with Saturday nighters, some fine brilliantly lighted shops & well lighted streets, all electric, & trams going frequently & speedily along the streets. Bed at 10 o’clock and enjoyed a good rest.

[8:13]

[1] Hanlan’s Island.

[2] A large coarse yellow to reddish orange beet extensively grown as food for cattle.

[3] A metal housing to support and protect journal bearings (rotating supports placed between moving parts to allow them to move easily).

[4] Illegible word here. May have been deleted.

[5] Sic. He may have missed a word when he went over the page.

[6] The 7^th Earl of Aberdeen (later 1^st Marquess) was Governor General of Canada from 1893 to 1898.

[7] Ishbel Maria Marjoribanks, daughter of Dudley Marjoribanks, 1st Baron Tweedmouth.