On board the “Westralia”, Sunday morning, 9:15, Aug 14/98.

We are now alongside the jetty in Port Chalmers & must await the tide to take us up to Dunedin. It’s dull but dry, & all the high hills are capped with snow. Here away is “Sandys” settlement, & without snow he couldn’t think it was like bonny Scotland.

I haven’t much to record since last writing. We arrived at Wellington & alongside one of the wharves, at 8 a.m., Friday 12th. It was wretchedly wet & miserably cold, streets muddy & anything but a fine prospect. I saw little of the town beyond a few of the principal streets. It seems a good business town & like developing. The harbour is good, & it is a great center. In fact, the center for transhipping goods for other places in the colony, & large ships can enter any time. I spent a while in the House of Representatives & listened to the legislators, but nothing of importance was going on. The Premier, Richard Seddon, answered questions & now & again dwelt a while on they that were more important than others, but beyond this, it was tame. Mr. E. Withy was once a member of this house. It’s a poor building, wood, but alongside it they are raising a brick structure. The buildings in N. Zealand are wood with few, very few, exceptions. Some are imposing & one here, the government offices, [6:27] is said to be the largest wooden building known. I went into a few shops & one large store, & was kindly shown through, always interested. I posted 2 spools, 1 letter, & 1 illustrated card, all for home. These, with all I’ve posted in N. Zealand since before going to Rotorua, you will receive at one & the same time, & they will go in the “Miowera” to Vancouver, the steamer I sail in. The scenery around Wellington must be very, very pretty in fine weather. It is so beautifully situated & forms a crescent with great hills behind & residences built far up the face. They’ve a tram system on the streets & plenty cabs, porters &c. &c. on the wharves. I left with the harbour board 6 packages, W 1.2.4.5.6 & a square white box till I return to join the Miowera. It was needless to fetch them along with me as I go back from Dunedin by train to Christchurch, then down to Lyttelton harbour, & take steamer for Wellington. We left Wellington Friday night at 20 past 5 with not a very good prospect for a night at sea, however, personally I had a very cosy night & slept well till early morning. I’ve had a warm bath before going to bed every night since leaving Auckland & a toothful of toddy after getting into my berth & felt the benefit of the indulgence.

On Saturday morning (yesterday) we arrived at Port Lyttelton at 10:30 & alongside one of the many jetties, a most picturesque enterance [sic] from the sea, between very high hills resembling [6:28] Loch Long, & on the highest hills snow was laying. It was a nasty, foggy, damp morning, & I was unfortunate in not seeing the lovely scenery at its best. I have struck N. Zealand at the bad season, as everybody tells me, & it must be so. Trains run at short intervals up to Christchurch & I got one at 11:25. Mean time I had a look around the port, not a big or imposing place but very beautifully situated on a hill face & a hill reaching far away in height & forming, like Wellington – rather prettier – a crescent. I liked the view much & was charmed despite the damp day & the snow clad hills opposite the harbour. It’s a busy little place as all import & export business for Christchurch & the great Canterbury Plains is transacted here. The “Ionic” was in port. She is a fine ship & once one of the Atlantic liners. A small man’o’war was there to[o], the “Tauranga” & several coasting steamers. The “Rotomahana” was also moored. She left Wellington just 20 minutes before us on Friday night.

Within 3 minutes of the train leaving the port, it enters a tunnel through the great hill & is nearly 2 miles long. On emerging on the other side is the great plains extending 100 miles N. to S. & 80 E. to W. We soon arrived at Christchurch, which is as flat as West Hartlepool. It was wet & disagreeable but as I had to return again by the 2:45 train, I moved about & saw as much as possible: cathedral, post office where I posted an ill’d[1] card [6:29] for my Comely, just to let him know where his father was. I then went to Mrs. Crompton, 323 Colombo St., Mr. Cobb’s friend. She is to take me to the cemetery to photo his brother’s grave. It was too wet & I arranged to do it on my return, if the day be fine. I called also at Bonnington’s, 199 High St., chemist’s shop. It was the races & Mr. B. had gone to the course, so I said I would call on my return. The senior Mr. Bonnington is on his return from a trip home. Mr. Cobb was anxious I should call. He had written him anent me. The town was busy, being Saturday as well as the races. It is said to be the most English town in N. Zealand, good streets & shops, trams & cab &c. &c. The citizens have erected a fine square monument in honor of HM[‘s] Jubilee & a peel of bells are now on the way to fix in it. It has 2 suitable inscriptions on its face. Wool & mutton are the chief products & industries around here, & a large tannery at Woolston, one of the little villages on the railway side.

I was attracted to a very beautiful butchery shop in Christchurch High St., & saw a bullock carcase [sic] beautifully dressed & on show, 1,150 lbs. & some grand sheep dressed artistically, 120 lbs. each, beef rump steaks, 8d, sirloin, 5d, & correspondingly downwards, mutton chops, 4d, & best cuts 4d downwards. Butchers’ shop[s] are very tastefully got up, clean & bright. I afterwards passed some equally nice. I went into 2 grocery stores & was much interested & received with courtesy. I made my way to the station & get the 2:45 & there met several fellow [6:30] fellow [sic] passengers & many others travelling, as I afterwards observed on the boat to Dunedin. We left Port Lyttelton at 4:25 p.m. Saturday. The onlook wasn’t favourable & a good pitching we got. While sitting at dinner, about ¼ past 6, she came down on a wave, such a tremendous bump you would have thought it was a rock she had struck. I did not go to bed till nearly 10. First had a hot bath, the[n] a “night cap” fetched to my berth by the steward, & feeling very warm & comfortable, both within & without, I soon was rocked in the cradle of the deep & awoke this Sunday morning fresh & fine. We entered the heads for Port Chalmers about 8:30 & got up to the port at 9. We were breakfasting during the passage up but I went out on deck now & again to view the lovely scenery close on either side, & when finished breakfast, Capt. Thorpe, who remained on the bridge, sent for me to go up beside him so that he might point out all of interest as we steamed up & this I very much appreciated. Such a charming arm of the sea, right up to Dunedin, beautiful grazin[g] hills & mountains, sheep in abundance feeding thereon, & every here & there pretty homesteads, & some portions of land were tilled, these lending a fine contrast to the extensive area of grazing land. The highest mountains & hills were snow clad, & even in some gorges, low down, snow was laying. Two Sundays ago the snow had fallen 5 inches in Dunedin. I was very much attracted to & delighted with the magnificent scenery these varied hills presented & put me in mind of the Scottish scenery in parts, these being softer than the rugged & weird highland hills. We lay at the port till 12:35. During the interval the Captain & I spent the while ashore. We first went for a walk, mounted a hill whereon is the signal station, overlooking the little town & harbour, & a very pretty view we had, the morning being clear helped the eye considerably, [6:31] & I much appreciated the beautiful surroundings. Nature truly has done very much for New Zealand, not the least of which are the beautiful harbours & inlets with their pretty bays, & in the inlet, all the way up to Dunedin from the sea, on either side are these bays, very inviting for residential purposes. There is a very handsome stone-built Presbyterian church at the port. The architecture far superior to Wallace Green, a lofty spire & on elevation. Quite a Zion. We attended worship but was ¼ hour late entering, 11:15, during which they were finishing the singing of a hymn, prayer followed, then children’s hymn (Church Praise) 428, lesson Luke 11th, 1-26, prayer with Lord’s prayer, intimations, collection, text, Luke 11th 5-13, a discourse & exhortation on intercession & importunity, hymn 358, prayer & benediction. Not a great many present, a spacious interior, equal to 600 sittings. We made straight for the steamer & the tide being now favourable, the Captain at once gave orders, & we were steaming away at 12:35 for Dunedin, where we arrived at 1:30, passing on the way up similar beautiful scenery, very intricate navigation, only a very narrow channel on the right side of the broad inlet & this channel staked off every ¼ mile or so, & each stake has its number & the depth of water painted on it for navigators’ guidance. They dredge this channel but has great difficulty keeping the way clear, so much silt depositing. There were only 2 vessels laying in the harbour & these sailing barques, one the John o’ Gaunt of Liverpool, & the other a German, both iron built.

[6:32]

I had been in the upper bridge all the passage up so that I might get the full view of the scenery & much did I enjoy it. Lunch was at 1 p.m. but the Captain told his steward we would lunch after arrival. So we did, & immediately after I prepared to leave for hotel. Mr. Cobb recommended me “The City”, but just while strapping up the hold all, a gentleman was shown into my cabin by the Captain, & this was Mr. David Bues (cousin of Mr. W. Leask of Sydney (sister’s children) & also brother of Mrs. Sanderson of Auckland, whom, with her husband, I’ve spoken of before) introduced himself. I had a letter of introduction to him from his cousin. I think I told you that just before leaving Sydney Mr. Leask gave me three letters of introduction. One for Mr. Sanderson, Auckland, one for Mr. Austin, his sister’s husband living in the country, sheep station, away over 100 miles out of Wellington, & the 3rd for Mr. D. Bues, Dunedin. Well, Mr. Sanderson, who saw me away from Auckland, & who is brother in law to Mr. Bues, had telegraphed to him that I was on my way to Dunedin in the Westralia (Mr. Sanderson is the managing agent in Auckland for Huddart Parker line of which both the “Elingamite” & Westralian [sic] are 2 of the fleet) & to my great surprise, Mr. Bues would have me be his guest, & we were soon in a landau & pair[2] & off to his home on the hill, 700 feet above sea level. His mother & two sisters live with him. They have a very fine house, large garden & considerable grounds, stable & buggy house, & usual out houses, in fact, quite a palatial residence.

[6:33]

I was soon made to feel at home. It was getting on to 3 o’clock before we got settled, after which we had afternoon tea. We did not go out, but gathered around the cosy fire in drawing room & chatted away the afternoon till nearly 6 o’clock when, Capt. Thorpe of the Westralia came up to spend the night. Mr. Bues invited him before we left the ship. We spent a very happy night & the family were quite interested in all the home news I was able to give them, & also a little of my travels. Mrs. Bues is much like her sister, Mrs. Leask of Adelaide, & knows exactly how to make one feel happy. I certainly did feel at home & cannot express my thanks for such unexpected & hospitable kindness. Capt. Thorpe left at 9:30. We set him down the hill, so far to the cable terminus & saw him off, & soon after returning home, retired, & I enjoyed my rest.

On the following morning, Monday, we breakfasted at 8, Mrs. Bues does not come down so early, so the Misses Bues (2) & Mr. Bues & I breakfasted, after which we had a walk around the grounds & before we left for the city, 9 o’clock, I photo’d the sisters & brother, & it will come out nice as I had both good light & sun. After a round about walk, we arrived at Mr. Bues’ office (the New Zealand Accident Insurance Coy.), & after a little while, set out to view Dunedin, a fine morning for moving about, sharp, frosty atmosphere & I enjoyed the sights [6:34] & during the forenoon, called upon Mr. & Mrs. Hogg, St. Andrew St., Mary Carlyle’s friends, they have a piano depót. They were very pleased to see me & would have been better pleased had I been at liberty to spend a while with them, however, that wasn’t possible. I saw only two of the family, George, a fine, strapping youth of 15, & Isabella, a tall, smart girl of 16, but more like 20. The others were at school, & if I remember right, the eldest, a son, was at work. I got what information I wanted as to where I would find Mrs. Coulter, the mother-in-law of Mary, whom Mrs. Hogg half expected down during the afternoon. Next, by arrangement Captain Thorpe was to meet us at 1 o’clock to lunch at the club of which Mr. Bues is a member, & after ample justice being done, we took tram for St. Clair & viewed the coast where recently a great sea has encroached & carried away considerable foreshore to the detriment of many residents. We walked along the sandy beach towards the fort & returned to the city by another road. This was now about 4 o’clock, Capt. Thorpe leaving to go on board to make arrangements for working after 5. I left Mr. Bues to attend to business & did a little viewing & shopping, photos &c., & returned to the office soon after 5, & not long after, we left for home, I getting off half way up, & going to pay a promised visit to Mr. Bain’s home, which is in Russell St.,[3] not a great [6:35] distance from the tram. A plan of the locality Mr. Bain sketched for me while in his company at Rotorua. Mrs. Bain & her 2 daughters, fine young women, welcomed me cheerfully. He had wired them I would call & they had seen the Westralia arrive, & had expected me on the Sunday afternoon, had all arrangements for teaing me, & was disappointed I was not going to spend a while with them. I stayed an hour. They were very anxious to have me stay tea with them, but Mr. Bues, who had another friend, a Mr. Jay up to dine, said they would wait for me, so I had to decline their pressing kindness. I, however, accepted a piece of nice oatcake to eat on my journey. I got also a copy of each of the two very sweet pieces of poetry Mr. Bain recited to me at Rotorua, “Silvery Tweed”, & “Dream of Homeland”. These I shall ask the Berwick editors to print & will send a copy out to them. I enjoyed the hour with them & feel sorry I could not extend it. Had I not agreed to return for dinner with Mr. Bues, I certainly would have remained a while longer with them. The mother, a very canny Berwickshire body, was quite overjoyed, chatting about her border home & early life. They are very fond of Dunedin but the girls would like to visit the scenes of their parents’ nativity as they speak so much to their young folks about it.

[6:36]

Mrs. Bain gave me a little memento to take home with me. I left at 6:30 & caught the cable car up to the terminus, a very steep hill, & from there I walked up to the house, & after dinner I went to visit Mrs. Coulter in Ann St., not 5 minutes’ walk from Mr. Bues. He went with me as it was very dark & left me after we found her house. She was so delighted to see me, a very sweet-faced, canny, Scotch body as you can possibly imagine. She had not been down the town but some other friend had called at Hogg’s during the afternoon & had tea’d with them, & then called & told Mrs. Coulter that I was coming to see her, & she had been very concerned during the interval & thought I had given her up. I stayed an hour chatting about herself & times gone by, & lots of interesting incidents & messages to Mrs. Carlyle, which I duly penned to Dumfries the following morning. Mrs. Coulter has a sister who lives at Melrose Abbey, whose husband was gardener to the Erskines of Dryburgh, but now enjoys a pension, & Mrs. Coulter is anxious I should go & see her & tell her how happy, well off, & contented she is, & certainly she looked it every whit. I left her feeling very pleased I had been privileged to visit such a nice motherly old body & I know Mrs. Carlyle [6:37] will be very pleased when she receives my letter card & to know I have visited Dunedin. I am sure when I get home & friends know I’ve been at Dunedin that there will be many I could have called upon. It is preeminently a Scottish town & doubtless many from the Boarders [sic] reside in it. On Tuesday morning, we breakfasted at 8, a very lovely morning, sun shining strongly & brightly. Mrs. Bues came down before 9 & I photo’d her sitting in a chair outside & near the house end with a good bush for background. Also, Miss Annie on her cycle, which she rode around the walk, & these I think will be good. Mr. Bues & I then prepared to leave. I bid adieu to the ladies & they wished me a happy journey homeward. I had spent a very happy while with them & trust I shall remember their kindness.

We walked to the city by a different route than the previous morning, via the Queen’s drive, passing the Knox Presbyterian Church, a very beautiful building, & this is where Mary would be married as Dr. Stuart married them, & this was his church. A very beautiful statue is erected to his memory (& stands in a fine triangle) by the people of Otago. I’ve got a picture of it & a photo of the church. Then going onward we [6:38] we [sic] passed St. Andrew St. again, & called in & saw Mrs. Hogg for one minute, & told her I had visited Mrs. Coulter the previous night. She was going to write Mrs. Carlyle & tell her of my visit. We now made our way to the office & then to the station where I was due to leave at 11 for Christchurch (my baggage was brought down by a van man who called at 8 o’clock for it). Capt. Thorpe came to see me off, he assuring me he would see me in Lyttelton, & so he did. I enjoyed the beautiful scenery all the way till darkness set in. It’s a long, slow ride, 11 till 9, 230 miles, the coast scenery on our right was very beautiful & on the left the Southern Alps, a grand majestic range of hills, snow clad, & the sun shinning [sic] on them sparkled so beautifully. It was quite panoramic. The hills around Dunedin were all white & it appears to have been exceptionally sever[e] this winter. The railway leaving Dunedin skirts the channel down to Lyttelton & winds around the pretty bays, quite a lovely scene, & the water was as calm as oil, & the sun bright upon it. Put me in mind of Tweed on a fine summer’s morning. Onward was fine cliff scenery, every now & again [6:39] skirting small townships & many very large farms with great sheep runs. This is a grazing country, & sheep & wool the staple products. Large tracts of land on the beautiful, fertile Canterbury plains are under tillage, & the grain is above ground looking healthy & strong. We lunched at Oamaru, & here is very pretty country. On some parts of the line we were practically on the shore & at no distant date the rails will have to be shifted as the sea is making inroad seriously. We arrived at Christchurch punctually at 9 & I put up at Coker’s Hotel[4], said to be the best in Christchurch, & very comfortable I was.

This Wednesday morning, August 17th, after breakfast, I attended to correspondence, as it was the last opportunity before leaving New Zealand, & I got all posted, & the mail will be carried by the “Miowera”, the steamer I sail to Vancouver in, & I see you ought to get the letters on Sept. 22nd, as they are due in London on the 21st.

I went to Mrs. Crompton’s, 323 Colombo St., Mr. Cobb’s friend. She was to take me to the cemetery so that I might photo his brother’s grave, & after lunch at 1 o’clock, her son & daughter, herself, & I set off at 2 & took tram, a long ride, & I photo’d the grave, & hope it will come out all right. Mr. Cobb told me he had not got a stone up yet. It is a very neat grave with a good stone coping[5].

[6:40]

On our returning to the city, I went to get some photos & green stone ornaments, both of which you will, I am sure, be pleased with. Darkness soon set in & I left Christchurch by the 7:45 p.m. for Lyttelton, there to join the “Westralia” sailing for Wellington. It is only 25 minutes’ rail ride, & between the time of arriving, 8:10, & sailing, 9:30, I wrote up my journal. This is Thursday morning & I am now writing in the cabin. We are due at noon at Wellington, & the Miowera is timed to sail at 4 p.m., so I shall get another look around Wellington. We have had a very comfortable passage & I had a rare sleep. Got up at 6:30, had a warm salt water bath & turned in again till the first gong sounded, 8 o’clock. About 70 passengers are on board, no rail, so this is the only means of travelling between Christchurch & the North Island. There are 13 race horses on deck & a “Fowler’s” agricultural engine. It is a lovely bright morning & the great range of high hills close on our left are all covered with snow. These are the “Kaikoura Hills”, & majestic they are, & look so grand as the sun glistens on the white snow.

Christchurch is a very fine city & looked so pretty yesterday, it being such a lovely day. I can imagine these colonies being very beautiful during the spring & summer months, & away down south, Dunedin & lower, the climate is exactly like Great Britain. Now I’ve written up to date & may not add another jot in New Zealand, but probably at sea en route to Vancouver, where I will post again & likely you will get this edition along with the last written in NZ, so good morning!

[6:41]

[1] Illustrated

[2] A four-wheel carriage pulled by two horses, with a top divided into two sections that can be let down, thrown back, or removed and with a raised seat outside for the driver.

[3] Inserted on facing page: “3rd house in Russell St. on the left off Arthur St.”.

[4] Demolished in 2014 after severe damage from the 2010 earthquakes.

[5] Coping (from cope, Latin capa) consists of the capping or covering of a wall.