On board the SS “Verona” nearing Singapore, Saturday afternoon 4 p.m., March 26/98.
So that I may post you a few lines while at Singapore, I will prepare them. I posted a letter from Penang which would be sent ashore in the ship’s letter box. However, when ashore I was near the post office & wrote a post card to Mr. Leask, & I know he will call & tell Willie so that you would know I was ashore. Nothing whatever to relate of note. Been so far a very fine passage & well so as we are inconveniently crowded. We were very much so from Colombo, but while in Penang, 23 additional were taken on board, while only 2 or 3 left, & there are consequently serious grumblings, & it is possible some more may be shipped at Singapore. A few go off there. It is so very hot & with such a crowd on board a comparative small boat it is very oppressive. Many sleep on deck & on Thursday morning about 12:30, a terrible downfall of rain came on & a general rush was made. Of course the awnings saved them from a wetting. It, however, soon passed. During the former part of the night much wild fire was flying & very magnificently lighted up the surroundings. Oh, it is hot. I’ve just had a cup of tea & I was induced to write this below for quietness but I must leave off & go on deck a bit. We are 15 miles off port yet. Besides, it’s very unsteady writing as the ship does thud so. Perspiration is flowing very freely now.
[3:10]
March 26/98 – Saturday.
Singapore harbour 9:05 p.m., your time 2:16 p.m.
We arrived at 5:30 alongside the wharf where many were waiting for friends, amongst them Dr. John Leask. I recognised him as being like Dr. Harry but had him pointed out after as Dr. Leask. He was about meeting some friends. I was on the wharf before he got aboard & handed him my card & letter of introduction. After reading & passing a few remarks he begged to be excused for the reason given & went on board where I saw he had friends & they all went ashore. He has sent me a letter on board excusing his leaving without again seeing me & asking me to go to his house early tomorrow morning & spend what time I have with them. I replied & said I would leave the ship at 10. Our doctor is also going to spend tomorrow so we are going up together. I did not say that we only had 2 hours ashore at Penang & really it wasn’t worth going ashore. Nothing to see but a very dirty, stinking place. The very harbour smelt abominably & they who did not go ashore said the harbour was bad enough.
What a fairy land the entrance to Singapore presents, quite a paradise to look at. The tropical vegetation is lovely & a pretty green everywhere. The harbour is quite land locked & the beautiful islands & hills covered with luxuriant vegetation forms a beautiful picture. I just came in contact with Mrs. Phipson as we were entering. Everybody was on the look out, & she remarked what a lovely scene it was. Most of the passengers rushed ashore & intend staying at hotels. [3:11] We don’t leave till 5 p.m. tomorrow, & the Governor is to be a passenger with us. The Chinese coolies are now coaling & others are discharging cargo. I see lots of lighters full of cargo for shipment is [sic] laying on the off side, so they will be busy all night & tomorrow.
We have just learned the “China” is ashore at or near Perim[1] but all hands are safe. She left Colombo a week gone Thursday, I think it was. I posted my Kandy letter to go by her, so if you get it I fear if the mails have got wet, you won’t be able to read it. I did not tell you about the fireflies[2] in Ceylon. I saw them to perfection the night I stayed at Brown’s. They are a pretty sight, flitting like stars from tree to tree, & they fly so slowly emitting a beautiful light, & Mr. Allan showed me a glowworm during our night walk at Nuwara Eliya. No doubt I’ve omitted lots but as they occur to my memory I will add them, tho’ I don’t approve my letters being so disjointed. The ship is quiet tonight & what a treat. Only about 20 remains on board. It soon came on dark after our arrival, so I left going to view till the morning & will get up early & have a rickshaw[3] round before breakfast. Now I will leave off for tonight. It is so hot & writing soon becomes irksome under such circumstances. I feel the sweat trickling down my breast & all my clothes are wet so it will be a treat to get undressed. I am getting some woolens washed on board. The stewards say the quartermasters are capital hands.
[3:12]
[1] Island in the Red Sea, off Yemen.
[2] Inserted on facing page: “Fire flies”.
[3] Inserted on facing page: “Richshaw”.