Thursday Island, Queensland, Friday noon, June 3/98, on board the SS Chingtu, laying along side the hulk[1] “William Fairbairn” of Brisbane, discharging what cargo we have for this place.
After leaving Port Darwin on Tuesday morning, 6:30, we got into open sea, which is called the “Arafura Sea”, & encountered a very strong head wind, & somewhat angry sea, which lasted all the passage to this port, where we ought to have reached yesterday. Nothing interesting to remark occurred during any of these days. On Tuesday at noon, our position was:
Lat. S. Long. E. Run
11.55 131.29 67 ½ miles
Wednesday, June 1 10.27 134.44 246
Thursday, “ 2 10.39 138.26 216 ½
It is 756 ½ from Port Darwin to here, & we arrived at 11 o’clock. It is so very breezy, we can’t venture ashore, tho’ the distance is not far, but they are rowing boats only, & tho’ some come off with letters, doctor, agent &c. &c., all get soaked with the water washing into the boat. We took a pilot a way out & they were drenched. We’ve had “fiddles” on all tables since Tuesday at lunch on coming out of P. Darwin. We had Melville Is’d [4:25] on our left, & now & again we sighted land, but at long intervals. The islands we did see were very pretty & covered with vegetation. This morning about 9:30, we passed closely a fine iron barque, “Columbus”, closely sailing away finely before the wind, & as we entered here we saw a barque, a wreck which has been on the reefs some years. Her masts are still standing, but a hopeless wreck. The big iron hulk, which lays in the harbour, was bought a wreck by a Sydney firm, Barns & Phillips, & serves as a coal hulk & a receptacle for cargo, so steamers go along side & discharge & take in. We saw many flocks of big birds this morning, chiefly white ibis & swans – very big birds & flew close over us. We soon enter Torres Straits after leaving here which will be very soon, as there are only a few tons to put out.
I told you there was no railway at Port Darwin. I was wrong. There is about 150 miles & it is intended to have through communication with Adelaide. Presently there is over a thousand miles without rail. I suppose the rail will open out the country. The rail at Port Darwin has very little traffic, the region being thinly populated. This place looks very much more enticing than Port Darwin, [4:26] & we regret being unable to get ashore for a while. It is very hot, bright sky, & sun overhead. We’ve had the moon for many nights & overhead was very delightful, whilst the deck was made as comfortable as possible for us, all covered in front & sides with canvas, which saved us discomfort. Really it was nice sitting on deck after dinner enjoying the cool, & we were well lighted on deck for reading or games by electricity. I hear they have got all discharged, so we won’t be long getting under weigh. Some narrows to go through, & the captain will want to get as far on as possible before darkness, 6:15 p.m. It was quite dark last night. I thought of your beautiful twilight. Nothing of the like here away. What a dreadful noise the winds make at sea, & especially with awnings up. Railway travelling is silent compared with it. I’ve just enjoyed “The Heart of Midlothian”[2] since leaving P. Darwin & could reread it, so very taking it proves.
We are now about 9 ¾ hours ahead of you, & at the moment our time is 20 to 1. Tables are being furnished for lunch, & as I have nothing more to add, I will close. I hear the engine room telegraph going, so it is evident we shall soon move away. I wished a snap shot of the shore but I fear we are too [4:27] far off for a picture. The gunboat, “Gold finch”, is laying just astern of us & has been here 10 days, so the pilot told us. These strong winds have blown for 14 days. Our course from P. Darwin to here was nearly due East. Now I close.
Friday night, 9 o’clock. We’ve steamed continuously since leaving Thursday Island, 1 p.m. till 8:30, when we dropped anchor for the night, having gone as far as is safe amongst the narrows – strong currents very prevalent about here, & no lights whatever on this part of the ocean. It is a very bright moon light night, & starry. Tomorrow, 4th the moon is full. We came through some beautiful scenery during the early evening, “The Albany Pass”, very narrow, ¼ mile, not more, & lovely land both sides. We came through Torres Straits between 3 & 5. We passed closely the wreck I before mentioned. She is a full-rigged ship. Her yards are all on the masts yet, & her bow & fo’castle head are out of water. She was wrecked in 1890. Owing to the strong winds, the pearl fishing boats (luggers) are all at anchor here abouts & several were laying in Thursday Island harbour, the only sea industry here away.
[4:28]
All the Japs left us at Thursday Island, & 2 Americans, who shipped at Port Darwin. We still have the Chinese. I have had a long crack with an old gentleman, Jones by name, who came out to Sydney in 1852 to the diggin’s[3]. He now lives at Rockhampton near Brisbane, & came up to Thursday Island only last Monday for the change. He developed asthma in January last but he finds up there too windy & the air too moist, so he is returning again to Cai[r]ns but will get off at Cookstown, where we call. He gave lots of interesting incidents of his experiences. He is independent & well cultured & refined, very soft & clear in his conversation. I must have another chat with him before he leaves us. It will soon be bed time. I turn in early, usually before this time, 9:30, but it is very enjoyable on deck at nights, especially during moon light, & now we are at anchor, it is quiet. I told you how noisy it is when blowing so hard & driving before the wind. The “swish” of the water from the bows as she dips & sends the spray over the awnings adds to the noise considerably. I am getting quite accustomed to being “rocked in the cradle of the deep”, but it makes locomotion or exercise difficult, & so the days hang heavy & makes us lazy betimes[4].
[4:29]
[1] A heavy clumsy ship.
[2] Sir Walter Scott, author. Published 1818.
[3] A gold rush in Australia beginning in 1851
[4] “Before time,” or Early