Benares, Friday 25th Feb’y 1898.

We have been visiting the celebrated Golden Temple this morning, built by the father of the present Prince, Duleph Sing, a Hindoo Temple, beautifully carved with gold gilt dome & spirettes but a miserable look on, also the Holy Well where a priest was ladelling out water to whoever worships there. We next visited the baazar & viewed about the shops & streets, & now we are going to have tiffin, & leave at 2:20 this afternoon for Calcutta, due there 5:45 Saturday morning. I did feel a regret whilst viewing the ghats that I had no film left, & this was really a sight I should have liked to taken, however I can buy photos of all that I saw. The native city is very dirty like all others but this is truly a city of temples. They are every where. Caine says there are over 1,400 & he can’t be wrong. I’ve been much struck all through India with the number of hospitals & schools. One hospital not far from this hotel, & which we passed in coming in, was erected by Lady Dufferin.[1] You know she was very energetic whilst in India & did much for the amelioration of the people, but oh, the Hindoo! I should think he is very difficult to win over even to the side of cleanliness, not to speak of converting him.

[2:54]

[1] Wife of Lord Dufferin, Viceroy of India (1884-1888)