SS Victoria in the Gulf of Suez, Friday morning, Jan’y 28/98.
The latter part of my letter last night was very hurriedly written in order that I might catch the box before it got removed, & time did not permit reading it & correcting before disposing of it, as has been my usual, & there are, I find, a correction to make here & there, but the principle one is on the last page, 71, there read for “At Aden”, Suez. The hour spent at the concert took up the time I had decided should be given to recording the day’s incidents on canal, & I further find there are a few items of interest forgotten, such as the recording of thermometer at Port Said just when we left, 10 a.m. local time, I registered 40 ½. The Capt. had remarked it being the first time he had ever wore an overcoat at P. Said. As we proceeded, however, it rose to 50 ½, this on the sunny side of the ship. [1:73] The sun often obscured, & to the great astonishment of all, we had a slight hail shower at 3:30 p.m. I picked some up & put them in my mouth, & they were indeed wintry. “Just imagine this, if you can, in the Suez Canal”, many remarked, & truly, we could have got this at home where we’ve left to seek warmer climes. This morning at 10:30, I looked at the thermometer on deck & it stood 55 ½. There is a cold wind blowing from the north, & we are close to either side of the land. Very rugged, the hills are, & some lofty, cloud-capped, the one side Arabian the other Egyptian. It’s not unpleasant on deck. I’ve sat an hour or more reading in my chair but I found it desirable to promenade, & now I have taken this opportunity to record omissions of yesterday. It’s risky to let much time elapse without committing to paper. I was awakened at 1 o’clock this morning with the rattling [1:74] of winches. This had evidently been a stoppage, as we did not reach Suez till 3:30 & left again about 4. I had been asleep during the time. I arose a little after 7, had a refreshing bath, & felt fresh & well. Our tables are thinned now & more comfortable. We were decidedly too crowded before Ismailia
Last night, as we anchored at Ismailia, the new moon, first quarter, shone very lovely, starry clear night, the pole star & plough just over our stern on the port side. These always remind me of home, but we must soon loose [sic] sight of them & look (there’s the band just commenced; every forenoon 11 to 12) for the southern cross.
The electric light is in use over the canal system & every vessel fixes a huge box, on entering, over the bow, & the light is very strong on both sides of the banks & makes the white [1:75] sand look just like snow. It’s a pretty sight, & all along the sides at intervals are lights for pilotage, supplied with gas: the holder fixed on the bank & contains 6 weeks’ supply, for each light burns night & day, like the buoys on the Clyde,[1] only these are on fixed poles, but all the way on the wider parts of canal are buoys: red on starboard & white on port side. As the trains passed there was naturally much merriment, & exchange of waving & hand saluting. The rails for many miles are close to the canal on the African side.
The band are playing a lovely piece. I oft think how Willie would enjoy the music. It’s charming to me, the 2 violins are rich.
As I came down to write, I saw the young ladies preparing for egg & spoon race. Great fun, especially if ship rolling. They had it one day such like. Quoits[2] are popular, chalk rings on deck floor, [1:76] others 2 buckets. Some play shuffle board & so on. I hear the wind whistling outside, & we who haven’t passed this way before were all warned by old hands to prepare for almost unendurable heat. They are rejoicing, it is so temperate. I’ve still winter clothing & kept to that degree all along, but a change must soon come as we are daily getting nearer the tropics. In one of my former letters, I said I would give you an account of ship usage & as I’ve been 14 days out now, I hope to devote a few lines to it tomorrow, as this will be a quiet, uninteresting day without incident, & the description will do for “padding”.
(On Tuesday last we ran 375 knots & the following day 370, betting every day on the run.)
I got 3 or 4 snaps yesterday on the canal & I hope they come out good. I think I will get some developed at Bombay.
[1:77]
Local time 6:30 p.m.
The bugle has just sounded ½ hour before dinner. We had a very nice run through the Gulf, shores very visible & with clear atmosphere we saw the immense rugged hills on both sides. The air became quite delicious & balmy as the day got on, & all were on deck. We entered the Red Sea proper about 2 o’clock, & fine expanse & water a beautiful dark bluey color. A few steamers passed, which attracted interest. At 2:30 p.m., the 2nd passengers had games & all 1sts invited. These were very amusing & varied, lasting till 4:30. They are a merry flock & plenty talent amongst them, many Scotsmen, chiefly young men, some married, & a few soldiers who are very leading in sport. Young women too had their sports & heartily carried them out. We are having a roll again. This has been going on for an hour or so, but [1:78] so far it’s moderate.
[1] River in Scotland.
[2] A predecessor of the game of horseshoes. Quoits is a throwing game in which heavy metal rings are pitched at short metal stakes driven into the ground.