Tuesday evening, 6 o’clock. We left Quebec just ¼ hour ago & as dinner is not served till 7 I thought I might use the interval writing up. Besides, it is dark & nothing interesting to be seen from the deck.

Well, to go back to the Lachine Rapids, after we got through I had opportunity to view the great river & its banks, just emerging from the rapids we were in, as it seemed quite a hollow of water or depression, & this was pointed out to me by the purser. A bed of rock was close on our starboard side. Flocks of wild geese were skimming the river surface. So intricate is the navigation when through the rapids, it is an ever changing course, now crossing, then bending, guide posts on the shore indicating, & buoys to go between, and as we drew nearer to Montreal, the left bank of the river brought New Water Haugh to my mind – the plantation with Haugh in the foreground & beyond the bridge – but instead of stone, its construction is similar to the Forth’s, considerably less in dimensions & the spans short, built of steel. I suppose it has 26 piers, & between the 13 & 14th is the water way. When Tweed is big, it gives a similar presentment. We soon rounded a point on our port side, Nun’s Island, & came into full view of Montreal Quays, & soon we sailed beneath this steel bridge & was not long before we entered the [8:21] No. 1 Lock of the Lachine Canal. It has 5 locks, & the steamer goes up to her destination by this canal, & runs the rapids coming to Montreal – impossible to steam up the rapids. We landed at No. 1 Lock & I was delighted with the trip throughout. It was now about 10:30. Just near the landing is the wharf of the Allan line & the Sarmatian, Brazilian, & Numidian, all of Glasgow, were at wharf, the first 2 loading sawn timber. As I found myself in the agency & wholesale locality, I sought out Mr. Colson, C & B‘s, agent & soon was in his office, where a display of familiar goods was exposed, & spent half hour or more with him. In fact, he wanted me to stay longer, & was anxious to do something for me by way of sight seeing, however, I desired not, however, he sent his son with me & we spent an hour together. I felt imposing on their time. Well, Willie can note this: a one lbs. tin of Slade’s Butter Scotch was standing on a shelf, & Mr. Colson asked me if I knew Slade – “Yes!” – & I also told him Mr. Slade had visited America about 2 years ago seeking notions, but evidently he hadn’t been in Montreal. However, I told him that he must tell Mr. Slade when next he wrote that I had visited him. I don’t think Mr. Slade comes our way now. Should he, however, Willie can broach this information to him. Mr. Colson had £40 worth, & all disposed of.

I next went to Hanson’s agent, Mr. Chaplin, & merely introduced myself, was seated, but did not take up much time. Both were going to tell the respective firms I had called upon them [8:22]

Around the locality are some fine business premises: banks, post office, insurance buildings – beauties they are – & in a square facing Notre Dame Cathedral is a grand statue of Maisonneuve, with corner figures (Red Indians) – his time had been 1642. Mr. Colson junr. & I went into Notre Dame & my breath was fairly taken away on my first gaze. The brilliancy & magnificence of this interior baffles description: 2 tiers of galleries & a monster organ which was being played, & the many alters [sic] as well as confessional boxes, & the rows of pews, with aisles as wide as the side seats in our church is long. I’m understating it & the church seats 15,000. It’s enormous. Then a finer sight for grandeur is the chapel at the rear. Such elaboration, figures, pictures, statuary &c. I’ve not before seen, but its appauling [sic] to see the imagery, & on one alter is hammer, nails, pincers, chains on a beam, this for worship. Figures of Christ on cross in several of these alters [sic], & the imagery of the bleeding wounds, but this I’ve several times seen even in the Brompton Oratory, London, but what I note lately is Christ laid in a casket, glass front, at the base of some alters [sic]. The alter [sic] which the instruments were attached was one of sacrilege [sic] & blasphemy. The Catholics do certainly go in for effect, & in every Catholic church there are more or less people doing their devotions, but this is a rosarie [sic] month, & much is requested of its members.

[8:23] After making arrangements for my Quebec trip, I went to hotel & lunched then set out to ascend the mount. I took car to its base & went up by elevator, the steepest in America that I’ve used, & a long one, but what a grand view from its top: a terraced platform, seated & canopied here & there, & every possible advantage given for sight seeing. Then I walked inwards amongst the trees, & got to one place where I got a different sight. Seats are plentiful wherever a view is obtainable, & a carriage drive of 5 miles goes around the mount. This the Montreal people are proud of. Verily well they may be. I got grand views of the great river & the opposite banks, also Nun’s Isle & the Isle of Orleans all very beautiful, & ferry steamers & other steam boats plying on the river. Then the great churches & cathedrals with their towering spires & domes, gilt crosses of immense size, glittering gold in the sunshine, & some have gold coated domes which are beautiful. Others have huge saint figures gilted on the summit of spires & towers, & striking they appear. All this contrasted with the “glar”[1] in most of the streets is very significant. My next visit, as I had to go into the locality, was to the office of Furness, Withy & Co.,[2] No. 44, St. Francois Xavier St. Young Vick was most anxious I should call & tell Mr. Hugill [8:24] that I had seen him off at Vancouver. Mr. Hugill was out but when I said I was from West H’pool, all gazed in wonderment & I was soon ushered into Mr. Hugill’s office to wait his coming. Meantime, I wrote 3 p. cards, 1 to your good self, & Mr. Hugill soon returned, & we knew each other at a glance. He used to live in Belle Vue & was in C. Furness’ office. It is nearly 9 years since he & his family left our town & he called in his son, a young fellow of 17. He could not remember me but he did the name as his father said he often had him in at 58, & bought him crystallized fruit. I told him I thought he looked well on his early sweets. We had a nice chat. I could not stay long as I had to go to hotel & prepare for 7 o’clock, & nearly an hour to the boat from hotel. He begged me to tea with them on Wednesday on my return, if I can see my way. A good print of Sir Christopher adorns the office & I was pleased to see it & commented. (Had my dinner & relished it enjoyably.)

Mr Hugill told me J.C. Warwick had been out a few weeks ago but was home again. Also that he had recently had a letter from L. Macfarlane about a friend he has in Toronto & wishes Mr. Hugill to get him up to Montreal. I wish I had known he had a friend in Toronto as I should have had pleasure in calling upon him. Too late now. I’ve possibly been to beautiful Toronto for the last time.

[8:25] This is a wretched bad book & the black paper poor, the worst, & costliest too, that I’ve had. After leaving Mr. Hugill, I hastened to the Queen’s & got ready & joined the PS Montreal at 6:40. She sailed at 7. A fine night, moon up but cold, & as it was dark & the saloon so very comfortable & well lighted, I filled the night in after dinner writing. The steamer is a monster of its kind, 4 decker & on top of all, but it just occurs to me I did describe the vessel & so it is as I’ve referred.

Well (I’m in her now & on my way back to Montreal) we arrived at Quebec this morning at 7:10 & moored alongside. I got up at 6 so that I might get all the view possible approaching Quebec, & I was repaid. It was cold but I only now and again went outside. Saloon well glazed front & aft, & chairs to sit on & look out. I admired the banks of the great mighty river: all tree clad, not very high, but pretty with the autumn tints. We passed about ¼ to 7 one of Doxford’s patents, the “Turret Bay”,[3] & a queer object they look steaming past, & I could have easily thrown a stone on deck, so close. Other 2 steamers passed us, bound for Montreal – lots of pretty residences on the left river bank & on the opposite right bank many small villages, each with a spire-topped Catholic church. A big cross tops every spire. On nearing Quebec, I was all attention. [8:26] [A?] beautiful position Quebec occupies & opposite directly is a pretty situated town on its high bank with many churches [is?] Levis. Steam ferrys [sic] ply, waggons &c. conveyed by ferry. For a long distance on the right bank are huge piles of sawn timber just like our timber yards, & fine [jetties?] where it is load[ed] into vessels, & here & there are shoots down the hill side, & timber is slid down these. Well, to Quebec on the left bank with its noble fort where the Union Jack was flaunting in the breeze & guns pointed all ways, an enormous height to look up – like Edinbro’ Castle out of the Grass Market[4] – then the residences on top & the magnificient [sic], world renowned for position, CP Ry hotel, Chateau Frontenac (every place & street is French) looked so grand with the business & old portion below on the river side, with its quays, jetties & docks (not many ships). It’s a large city all together. The upper part, as it is called, is very, very pretty & well laid out, so historic, with its fortifications & ramparts, the face of which is not unlike the face of Berwick walls. The half round roll or moulding running along near the top, [?] walls are considerable, not so high as Berwick nor walks like it. The fort or citadel as it is called is inside this [?] separate, & has walls, its own & moat [8:27] all around. I saw all the citadel – a soldier told off to accompany – & I was looking over its walls just as the time gun went off, noon & not 15 yards off. I’ll shew you the spot. It is one of the views souvenir I posted today before I left, but this you won’t get same time as post card as mail left at 11 a.m. for Teutonic, sailing from N. York tomorrow, & I did not get souvenirs till about 2 p.m. However, it goes with the Lucania on Saturday & you will get it a week come Sunday, likely. The height of the fort from river is 365 feet. Governor’s residence is close to the time gun, closed at present, but Aberdeen is due in a few days I see & is to be there when Minto[5] arrives.

I breakfasted on board as soon as we arrived & got ashore at 8 (9 hours to view, & ample). I wrote in p. office before 10:30 9 p. cards to sundry friends, Willie & Andy also, & 3 letters: 1 to Albi, 1 to Mr. Sinclair, Salem, & 1 to Mr. Lincoln, Boston (Matt Forster’s friend). I visited the Parliament buildings, library, Senate & Assembly Chambers &c. &c., but it does not compare with Ottawa, & all is in French. The building is really choice & stands majestically. Then I went to the hotel, CPR, F[r]ontenac, & took the elevator to top, & had a fine view, but let me say I had taken the hill elevator to ascend to this summit, souvenir shews it. When we are going over these souvenirs & I [8:28] many[6] (only a few has been posted) there is lots to refer to & I will then explain. I view churches & cathedrals. One, the “Basilica”[7] – see it – is a most gorgeous interior: a mass of gilt & some massive architecture, beautiful figures &c. &c., & a quaint old Catholic church too. I went in twice: dated 1688, the oldest church in Quebec. Several were at devotions & a fine figure of Christ recumbent in a casket, glass front, on one of the alters [sic]. Some were there at devotions. Guns & mortars are on parts of the walls & in olden times it has been a well fortified city. Its position might be likened in some respects to Gibraltar. The streets are narrow, it being an old city, & the buildings very quaint. Some newer localities have better streets but in the lower city the roads are soft & muddy, & in busy parts impossible. Some very good shops, nearly all French names. Two or more shop windows were full of very lovely Catholic figures: all imaginary kinds from Christ, Apostles, Madonnas to the child’s nativity in the stable. A gig[8] kind of vehicle took my attention & you’ll see it in souvenir. It hangs in leather straps. I had a ride in one to see what it was like: very easy & swings comfortably. There is a grand terrace leads away fortwards from the Frontenac, & on this are lots of seats [8:29] & band stand like erections for shelter during summer, also a fine big band stand, so I expect in summer this will be a great resort. Then there are several beautiful statues. Wolfe is remembered with a beauty on the spot where he fell, also an obelisk near the terrace I’ve spoken of, but the grandest monument just erected this year is to Samuel De Champlain. He founded Quebec 1608. It is a fine piece of work & the figures on it are grand to view. My impressions of Quebec are very grand. It’s a city unique in many respects from any other I’ve seen, either at home or abroad, & few I venture to say occupies such a novel situation. Still there’s a something, I can’t well word it, about it that depresses you, & I think I should not care to live in it. I was pretty well tired by about 4 & leisurely made my way to the jetty, & boarded the “Montreal” about 5, & she sailed at 20 to 6 – 5:30 was the advtd. hour – so now we are racing along, & it just 5 past 9. I’ll close as I am up to date once more, & will post this at Montreal tomorrow. Now I will turn in as I held on at it too late last night.

Good night!!

[8:30]

[1] “Glar” or “glaur”: Scots dialect for “mud”.

[2] Edward Withy had been a successful shipbuilder in Hartlepool since 1869. When he moved to New Zealand in 1884, he sold his shares in the business (E. Withy and Company) to Christopher Furness. Furness was a local ship owner, with a string of businesses related to shipping. In 1891 he joined all these together to form Furness, Withy and Company.

[3] William Doxford and Sons began building marine steam engines in 1878. In 1893 they began building turret deck ships, which had an unusual type of hull that curved inwards towards the deck. SS Turret Bay was an example of this type, built in 1894 and ran aground in 1904.

[4] Square in the city of Edinburgh, Scotland, beneath the castle.

[5] The 4th Earl of Minto was named Governor General of Canada in the summer of 1898.

[6] Sic. He may have missed the word “have” when going over the page.

[7] Cathedral Basilica de Notre Dame (founded 1647) [Editor’s Note: text incorrectly states 1688]

[8] Two wheeled, horse-drawn carriage.