Gibraltar

Tuesday 4:45 p.m. Jan 18/98.

After posting letters last night – these were yours, & one of thanks to Alderman Duckworth M.P. for his kindly generosity in sending me a complimentary copy of his Trip Round the World in ‘93 – dinner over, we lingered till nearly midnight on deck. It was so very delightful, no wraps needed. The stars shone like minor moons & the atmosphere as clear as possible. Then “turned in” & rested well. Of course we expected to sight the coast near Gibraltar early morning & I got up at 6:30, & on looking out – as has been my custom first thing – the port hole, sure enough, there was the coast. I hurried to get my bath & dressed, then on deck soon after 7, a few there before me but expectation ran high & very soon a crowd were on deck, [1:29] all eager to view the entrance to the straits. The Morocco coast was very visible & Tangiers, with the sun shining on the white houses, indicated its position clearly. Then a closer interest was manifested in watching porpoises, of which there were many playing around the ship, & soon a huge whale made its appearance, every few seconds blowing then gently diving & showing his big fin. By this we were closing in towards the coast & passing Tariffa point, soon sighted the massive rock of Gibraltar, & steaming slowly along anchored in the beautiful bay at 10. Breakfast was, as usual, 9, & truly I grudged the time below, fearing to miss any view of interest, but I was ready for a cup of tea & fine it was, a little good bacon & I made a feast. As soon as we [1:30] anchored, a steam launch came alongside. The doctor went down the ladder & handed papers to an official, & declared aloud that all were well on board. Then we were informed we could go ashore & return before 1, at which hour the Victoria would weigh anchor (& promptly they did it). Numerous boats came along side. We got tickets for to & fro, 1/-[1] each way. I enjoyed the break.

4 of us had a carriage & by this means saw much. Drove to the garrison & subscribed our names, & a soldier guided us through much of the fortress & to a height, by my hypsometer, 350 feet. We ascended not in the open but through tunnels, here & there openings, & a gun on carriage pointed through the rock face. This was not of much interest beyond the satisfaction of having seen it. We then drove to view, going over [1:31] the Spanish frontier to La Linea[2] & back again to Gibraltar, & viewed about the town. I took a few snap shots which if they are successful will help me to describe Gibraltar to you on my return. I was pleased with the town generally: clean & orderly, & much traffic going on. We visited the markets & all were busy, many Spaniards over from Linea with fruit, vegetables, milk &c. most of them with donkeys. Several Moors, too, were about. I snapped 2 but they do not care for being distinguished. 2 or 3 attempts I made failed, as so soon as they saw the camera aimed, off they went. While in the fortress, I had to promise not to take a sketch!

Here I must record an act of honesty. I had my glasses in the case swung over my shoulder & the catch being [1:32] too easy, had loosened & I lost out my glasses. This had been in going over to the Spanish town, & on returning, a Gendarme[3] stopped our driver (I sat on the box with him) & enquired in good English, had we lost any glasses? All said no. However, we had not driven far away till I put my hand to my side to get them to view the face of the rock, & I then discovered they were gone. We turned about & soon made to the point where the Gendarme was, & he had them in his pocket. I just held up the empty case & out of his pocket he brought them, & waved an elderly Spaniard to come forward, who had picked them up, & to whom I gave a reward, which much pleased him. Evidently this man had seen them drop in going as we passed the same point, seemingly a street lounge[r], & prospected our return again. [1:33] I should not like to part with them as they have a close interest for me. It is 24 yrs. come April since I bought them & soon after that “two” of us used to look through them[4].

We got on board again 12:30, pleased to have been on shore at Gibraltar. Many bright baskets of oranges & beautiful flowers aboard, & boatmen came on board too with fruit, flowers & wares. Off we went at 1 to the minute, lunch sounded, & now we are sailing up the Mediterranean with the sea as smooth as glass. I’ve seen the like on a fine summer day from the sea banks at home but certainly never in January. It is really very delightful. Here I just left off & popped my head out of the port hole of my berth where I am writing this, & there is not one ripple on the face of the [1:34] water 12 feet beyond the ship’s side, & within that distance is the wash from the propulsion.

[1] “/-“ = shillings

[2] City in SW Spain on Bay of Algeciras.

[3] Policeman

[4] William is referring to his marriage to Mary Tate on April 13, 1874.  She died of complications from childbirth on December 20, 1883.