Andorinha
Calcutta, Thursday morning, M’ch 3/98, 6:40 a.m.
A very beautiful morning, after a very warm night, the heat is daily increasing & is the common subject of comments. Here’s my cup of tea & toast fetched in, so I conform to custom. Yesterday was spent much as previous days. After breakfast, 9, on deck to view & see & have a word with Albi, & about 11 went ashore with the Captain & Mr. Walker to Grahama’s [sic] then to a Chinaman artist’s[1] who paints the pictures of the ships. Ours was done by him & also I noted he copies & enlarges photos or transfers them to canvas, & capital work he executes. Captains have the wife & perhaps the youngest child transferred to canvas, & himself immortalized. None did I know. Then I went to Cook’s near by Graham’s but no further news. I have to call today & I hope with good results, otherwise I will take passage to Colombo in another line. Captain Morgan suggested a half day for Albi, so I will take advantage this afternoon. Capt. & I after a cup of tea at 4:30 yesterday went ashore to see the unveiling [sic] of Lord Roberts’s Statue[2] & it was a very brilliant demonstration, thousands there & some thousands of troops & volunteers on the ground, both infantry, cavalry, & artillery mounted. We had a fine view but not on the road by which His Excellency with body guard & gay retinue travelled, tho’ we might have been there but took up a position where we had a full general view standing up in the gharry, the unveilling being preceeded by speeches, of course, the Nat. Anthem & a Salute of 17 guns from the fort[3] close by. London, [2:65] I venture to say, could not surpass the gaiety that was present, & certainly the native servants attendant on their masters by far surpassed in show anything we see in London, so varied are the colours & get up of livery. 2 on box & 2 behind was very common, & some very fine horses. The only time since I left home have I looked on a silk hat, & these were evidently the symbol of an extra event. Like the Dutchman, I left mine on board & the Kodak too, tho’ I am not sure that I could have got much of a picture at that time of day. Many were using cameras & one I saw quite 20 feet high on a raised platform near the statue, this I expect for His Excellency’s special benefit. We intend going to view the statue today. You will likely read today in the “Mail” some account of it. I met Albi at 6:30 by arrangement in the gardens & he, Mr. Walker, & I got the gharry & took a drive over to Howrah & home by the native city, & most undesirable quarters these are, but typical of every place which I have visited in India. The native habits are alike every where. While at the Captain’s Club yesterday, where Capt. Morgan called as we drove to the Chinaman’s, we met a Capt. Blyth of the Anchor Line steamer “Bavarian”. He leaves on Saturday for home & calls at Colombo. A passenger steamer, she is. I might get a berth in her. He thought 2 were still vacant so I will see today what results at Cook’s & then may go to Graham’s, the agent for Anchor Line. The Hoogly is a very noble river full of craft of all kinds, especially lighter dingys, launches, river steamers, tug boats &c., but the noble 3 & 4 masters[4] which line the left bank, Calcutta side, is a sight which I suppose is not equalled out of ‘Frisco, & some very fine large steamers too, passenger & cargo.[5] Discharging the salt goes on slowly. It is low in market value at present, therefore sales are not forced, so they bond it. 4 custom [2:66] officers are on board: 1, a preventive officer, never leaves the ship & after discharging is over at 5 p.m. all hatches are put on, covers over each, & each sealed at the 4 corners. Salt is indeed a costly article here.[6] Some what remarkable, don’t you think, that I should have seen the cargo put in at West Hartlepool & also seeing it discharged here. Coolies, these are labourers, do all the discharging,[7] lots of them, some in hold fill the small baskets, about 14lbs, 2 stands [sic] on a stage, 2 above on deck, 2 on a stage again where there is a large scoop scale with an automatic recorder fixed, & on the balance is tipped into a shoot to a lighter at the side. The baskets are pitched up all stages & quick. It is done continuously. “Serangs” overlook them & the shouting that goes on amongst these fellows gives you the impression they were threatening murder. Some of the coolies perspire freely like a sponge & their bodies are dripping. Others relieve by exchanging positions & so on.
Roads here are good, well cared for, & watered by “Bhesties”[8] with skins over their shoulders, & manipulate the outlet (neck) with their hand, trotting all the while. Some roads, especially in the native parts, are thick with dust & are not watered, no causeway,[9] all road way.[10] Many Dhoolies are used. Some natives prefer being carried to riding or walking, & this seems hard work for the carriers (4) pole on shoulders & always trotting. Bullock waggons everywhere. No horse carts at all & big loads these bullocks trail, weight on the necks.[11] Some have 2 tracers also, & occasionally single bullock cart, shafts with the cross beam resting on neck, & this spot is like iron. It is just in front & below the hump which every cow & bullock has in this country.
[2:67]
I must make an effort to go to Howrah cemetery but it will have to be early morning soon after 6 as the heat after 10 is very severe & then after 5 there is only 1 ½ hours day light.
I hear the band playing, soldiers drill early morning & much as I like to see them I don’t go ashore too soon. The river last night, from Howrah bridge, was a fine illuminated sight: gas & electricity. Trams run here but I see natives chiefly occupy them. Europeans can’t walk about here during daytime so use gharries, poor small horses some with 2 bits of ponies, fair skeletons, but now & again a decent horse is to be seen even in a gharry. The better class, of course, have very good animals.
The same steward is here as was at W. H’pool but Gaffu had got discharged soon after laying here, got ashore & sometimes stayed too long. Sailmaker (Sturrock), Donkeyman (Kendall), & carpenter “Chips” Prockett: these are W. H’pool men, & 4 others of the crew remain. No news further about Jeff. I can hear the coolies shouting. They are preparing the gang ways to begin. Customs don’t start till 8 & finishes at 5 unless the merchant pays for over time. 3 hatchways were working yesterday.
Now this is mail day & it’s possible I may not add more for this time. These 3 photos the Captain gave me. The pilot took them just after he had got them anchored at the mouth of Hoogly. I get the developed Kodak photos tomorrow & will forward them next mail if possible.
My love to you all & feel delighted you are all together. I am well, for which I desire to be grateful.
Albion is A1 & won’t write any letter as I am sending this. Good morning!!!
Local time 8:30. Your time 2:35 a.m.
(A special kiss for “my Comely”).
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[1] Kong Wein
[2] Inserted on facing page: “On the beautiful Maidan”.
[3] Inserted on facing page: “Fort William”.
[4] Sailing ships with 3 or 4 masts for carrying sails.
[5] Inserted on facing page: “Barque ‘Moy’ was in the river – since then I saw her in West H’pool loading salt for Calcutta”.
[6] Inserted on facing page: “Salt under Customs supervision”.
[7] Inserted on facing page: “Method of discharging cargo”.
[8] A water carrier, as to a household or a regiment.
[9] Paved highway
[10] Unpaved highway
[11] Sketch inserted here
Photo: “Andorinha,” painted in Calcutta
Great pic of the Andorinha!