Sunday, February 6th, 1898, Bombay, India

Exactly 12 o’clock (noon), your time 7:08am, Bombay, Sunday, morning Feb’y 6/98.

Well, here I am at last in India. The Ballaarat anchored in the harbour at 9:30 local time, & at once operations began. We got landed by tender after our baggage had gone to Customs Wharf. I got cleared in due time, a slow process & only my Kodak was dutiable: 1 R – 8 a. – 4 pice. After leaving Aden, we all got schedules, I did tell you this, & on each package is a gummed number – mine was 3 – this corresponds with the schedule number, & this, with baggage, is sent ashore & examined, & we make for the pier & go through the form. Many were disputing, however, I had only to explain & got through. Scores of coolies[1] ready to lift you & baggage are about, & gharrys[2], however, Mr. Gordon, who could not be present, we having arrived 2 hours earlier than expected, sent his man with a letter to the landing pier, & he assisted me [1:100] beneficially (a native wearing the “Advocate of India”[3] badge). After getting my baggage on the gharry, I set him on the box, I inside, & came to Watson’s Hotel,[4] where Mr. Gordon[5] had engaged a room (his man is now away to the “Apollo” for my letters). I am at the top, lift up, & a very lovely view I have over my balcony. Malabar Hill over the water, just a Panorama (Naples[6]) & opposite, across the carriage road, is the university, & at the right a beautiful church with musical bells. The magpies and crows are making a great row. Many of our passengers are in the hotel. I am not going out till after 5. It is too hot & I must get a sun hat before I venture out tomorrow during the sun’s height. I shall have more to add after I get a look around. I see the railway runs along the bay front, & 2 trains have passed while I’ve been writing these few lines. I should say that Mr. Gordon was at the hotel on my arrival. He & some friends had arranged a cycling run, expecting to be home in time to come off to the Ballaarat. Our early arrival, however, upset his good intentions. He received me very kindly & is anxious to render me every assistance whilst here. There’s a juggler just below on the road & has his snake & a huge rat before him & jabbering aloud, but more of this in a while.

[2:3]

No 2

[1] A local man hired cheaply to do labouring or portering.

[2] A horse-drawn carriage in the Indian subcontinent, especially one for hire.

[3] English newspaper published in Bombay.

[4] Built 1867-71, see article by Clarke, Jonathan Like a Huge Birdcage Exhaled from the Earth in Construction History, 2002 v. 18.

[5] Added in pencil on facing page: “Mr. Gordon, proprietor of the “Advocate of India” died at 18 Castletown road West Kensington, W. on the 28^th February 1922 & buried in Putney Vale Cemetery Thursday March 2^nd 1922 at 11.30 a.m. He was a J.P. & Hon. magistrate for the presidency of Bombay. He went to India at the age of 24 on the literary staff of the Bombay Gazette, & died in his 56^th year. Born at West Hartlepool & served his apprenticeship there. On my tour round the world I was much indebted to him for his companionship while I stayed in the same Hotel as he at Bombay – Watsons Hotel.” Born 1866, was 32 yrs old in 1898.”

[6] The view is reportedly reminiscent of Naples, Italy.