On board the SS Rohilla, Nagasaki harbour, in quarantine, Saturday morning, April 23/98. 9:45.
On Thursday I had to hurry to finish of[f] my journal as the German mail steamer “Hohenzollern” was leaving, & an opportunity for getting a letter forward. In it you will see the fix we have got into. It was a busy & exciting day with the Jap port sanitary officials inspecting &c. &c., then we were anxiously awaiting the doctor’s report from on shore where they took the Chinese, who was one of the fireman, & our worst fears were soon realised. It was a case of plague & 6 bubons had developed (bubonic plague) & as this is the first case in Nagasaki of this form of plague, all were naturally excited. The result to us is 7 days’ quarantine, dating from the hour after which all & everything has been disinfected or fumigated. We all felt very annoyed at such a jail-like prospect. We are riding at anchor & flying the yellow flag. No one but the sanitary officers, & they are many, are allowed to board us. These live in the Quarantine island, & to this island every person on board – 99 ship’s company – 10 first class, 7 second class & 5 steerage passengers, the latter are 5 Japs, 2 men 3 women, returning from So. Africa. We were taken in sections which occupied from 8 a.m. till 5 p.m.
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We first class & the second went together at 1 p.m., the process occupying about 2 ½ hours. We were in a huge boat, seats had red ba[i]ze[1] on for us, & towed by steam launch to the sanitary quarters. We had to undergo bathing & during this our clothes were all separately taken, put into a basket, then into a bag, & were steamed at a very high temperature, put into a boiler for the purpose. This occupied very much longer than it took us to bath. Clothing, mean time, is provided: woolen dressing gown, socks & slippers. A very beautiful, clean, large room for retiring where tea, brandy & cigars were served. Then, when our clothes were passed on to us, as we opened each garment out they reeked with steam, so thoroughly had they been permeated. They, however, soon were fit to put on, but in such a cramped state. None of us had on any garment that would be seriously injured, still our underclothing suffered some what. The suit I took was the grey homespun. It has not shrunk but it will require pressing. I am about done with it as in India & Ceylon it got much destroyed with perspiration & dust. However, it is good yet & will do for standby & change when at sea. While we were away, our berths were all fumigated. The Captain on Thursday night arranged for us to put into the hold all we did not require for a day, & to get this accomplished he got the official (who was in charge on board to see no one either left or boarded the ship) down to dinner. We had [5:59] prepared all before we went into dinner, then some of the stewards & an officer got all nicely stowed away, so these saved any damage from disinfecting, but after all the one bag I left in my berth (we had to leave one to avoid suspicion) was never touched. They had a water can with rose, sprinkled all floors, carpets & deck with carbolic. A lot of 5 gall. drums was put on board, then each man had a perfume spray filled with carbolic & sprayed here & there, & as officials left the ship, they were sprayed to. So were our letters & so will this one be sprayed to[o]. Really it is a farce what they do but we have no alternative. The ship is closely watched & no one can possibly come or go without being seen & an official in a boat is at the bottom of the accommodation ladder also. Provisions are brought on board by a launch, such as fish, vegetables, fresh meat &c., & anything once on board cannot be returned.
We are promised the privilege of going ashore to the Quarantine island to walk about & we may sail in the harbour. The life boat has been got ready, but it is raining this morning so we may not get either treat today. It is very cold, & I should say much more so than you have it at home, seeing it is nearing end of April. What an experience this is & will be. I regret it, but of course it was not calculated upon. I shall not see much of Japan as I shall return with this steamer & get my passage [5:60] to Australia by the “Australian”, due to leave Hong Kong on May 10th. If this be carried out, I ought to be in Sydney just about the time you receive this. I fancy you should receive this letter about May 29th. They – at this moment one of the officers has come to say all hands on deck for inspection, I heard a launch whistling a minute ago so the sanitary inspectors are here. This, I expect, will be a daily occurrence. Now the inspection is over & all well. It has to be repeated daily & I hope no further case occur during our confinement. Our doctor sees to the crew being kept clean & their quarters well disinfected.
The “Rosetta” P&O steamer came in here last night on her way from Yokohama to Hong Kong, & takes letters away. This is the steamer I would have come on to Japan in after just arriving at Hong Kong, but I thought it would turn out best if I made my stay in Hong Kong first & may be it was well as it has been fairly winter in Japan, so captain & officers tell us, & possibly I might not have got much about, whereas I had a fine weather both at Hong Kong & Swatou & Amoy. I may get 2 or 3 days ashore at Kobe & Kioto & Osaka after all this however I will tell you about afterwards.
The P&O launch is now alongside & may take letters away. I must ask if there will be another chance during the day as I don’t [3:61] want to hurry this. The “Rosetta” does not leave till about 4 p.m.
Now I find I must close as the launch is about to leave. If there be another chance today I might write again. Any way, I am satisfied to have sent on. I am well & hope all is well with you. Here are two items enclosed: the bath permit & the port sanitary instructions. Keep them.
Memo
April 5th, Tuesday, left Hong Kong for Swatou by SS “Hai-mun”.
April 6th, Wed., Arrived at Swatou. Spent some hours with Revd. P. Maclagan & left again same evening for Amoy.
April 7, Thursday, Arrived at Amoy early morning & stayed there with Mr. Thompson & Mr. Beattie till the following Monday (which was Easter Monday) at 4 p.m. & got the same steamer back, the “Hai-mun”, she had been to Tam-sui (Formosa) mean time.
12, Tuesday, arrived at Swatou 6 a.m. Went soon on shore & spent a few hours again with Mr. Maclagan. Saw the Lialls, also the moderator (Mr. Mackenzie) & left during the afternoon, 3:30, for Hong Kong.
April 13, Wed., arrived at Hong Kong 6 a.m.
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[1] Woolen or cotton material napped to imitate felt.