La Fayette, Indiana, USA. Monday morning, Oct 3/98.
You’ll note that I’ve committed nothing to paper (diary) since Wednesday last, but I make notes in my memo book of passing incidents & events, & these are helpful should I forget as I write up the diary. Well now, Wed. night was spent quietly. Some friends of Sarah’s called during the night. Sarah had been staying with her cousin Matthew during my visit. Also Father Dan Forster, who I told you was the priest at Simcoe & Matthew’s nephew. He is a merry soul & capital company. I also during the evening had made all arrangements, got tickets for Sarah & self for Chicago, as the train was due to leave at 10:30 on the following morning (Thursday). We got 18 day tickets as it is an annual event & for 3 days these tickets are issued, 29th, 30th, & Oct 1st, & available for return during 18 days, 8 dol. 50 c., equal to 35/5 each. On Thursday morning, 29th, the great day throughout the Dominion of Canada, & you’ll no doubt have seen it recorded in our home papers, a vote on the Prohibition question was to be taken & the booths opened at 9 a.m[1]. Mr. Forster had a part of his store let off for a polling booth, & the voting began then, but not the least excitement. All saloons & hotels, & every where drink is sold was closed, & always is on election days. Of course, there was a party feeling & both sides do their best. The result has, however, favored by a strong majority[2] the Prohibitionists & it remains to be tested in the Dominion Parliament[3]. We got to the station, or depot, as they are called, & poor miserable places they are every where so far as I’ve seen [7:48] & bear no comparison to our passenger stations. In fact, my experience so far convinces me that we are far, far ahead of either the Canadian or States railways. The train was ½ hour late & it was 11 o’clock ere we got away. It was a warm day but not uncomfortably so. Many people were taking advantage of the extended tickets, yet there was no crowding & there’s only one class, tho’ the seating arrangements vary, reclining chair cars, adjustable & others, seats upholstered. These have convertible backs which I can better explain to you afterwards. We passed through fine agricultural country, fields of pumpkins of enormous sizes. These all grow in fields & by the acre, & grow just like veg. marrows, largely used as vegetable. Then fields of maize, corn they call it here, most of it is in stook[4], some were husking it, that is cutting the heads off the stalks & taking the covering leaves off, & laying it on the ground to dry. Then fields innumerable sown with fall wheat & some 6 inches – aye, more, some less, depends on the days it has been in – above ground & gives the appearance of our wheat fields in the month of April.
We passed Aylmer, where there is a great fruit canning factory, & I have long known the brand, especially apples. It seemed a fine little town. We arrived at Windsor at 2:30 – now refer to the map of Canada & you will see this part from Buffalo – border state city – to Windsor forms a peninsula, said to be the finest agricultural land & country of the whole dominion here. I was greatly interested & saw what was to me great wonders. Windsor is the terminus of Canada, & between Detroit on the other (USA) side is a wide river, St. Clair[5], & across this river all trains are ferried across on monster steamers. We arrived in time to see a train which had got in before us transported, & I saw the whole [7:49] performance. Then another steamer backed into a small dock for us. I was ashore all the while (as the call on the train aboard) & watched the process again closely. Steamer has 2 sets of rails on deck, & our train of 6 long cars was shunted aboard the steamer in 2 sections, 3 on each rail (some boats carry 8 cars) all so simply done, & off we steamed across. I did not board the car till we got to Detroit dock, & was quite interested with the whole procedure, & as soon as the cars were hauled ashore again, I boarded & we were drawn to the depot. This goes on continuously & at very short intervals, as merchandise goes over too. It only takes about 5 or 8 minutes to cross, but what a traffic is here, magnificent large 3 deckers for lake passenger traffic are here. I saw a beauty, “The City of Cleveland”. She passed by us & I was told she was the finest on the Lakes, & belonged to the Detroit & Cleveland SN Coy.,[6] 2 huge funnels & all deck (3 tiers) accommodation, paddles. It appears there is here more traffic than on any other of the great lakes, as steamers go through here to Montreal, see your map. It was like a great seaport & a USA naval training ship, & a big one, was laying on the Detroit side. Now as soon as we landed at Detroit, the time altered & we put our watches back exactly 1 hour, going West. This is the first occasion I’ve had to put my watch back as I’ve hitherto been travelling Eastward. Of course, on our return, & when we get to Windsor, Canada, then the hour is gained again. Now while at Detroit, I saw that we could deviate by forfeiting so much of our coupons & instead of going on direct to Chicago (where I had asked Matthew to be & meet us at 9:30 – I wired him the day before) we could go into Montepelier (a junction) & from there pay our passages to La Fayette, 4 doll. 50 c., 18/9, each, arriving there at 11:30. I hastened to the telegraph [7:50] telegraph [sic] office & wired Matt, telling him we were coming direct to La Fayette, hoping we would be in time to catch him before he left, & the hour we had gained almost assured me I should catch him, & luckily it did as he was just about starting. In fact, he & his wife were in the buggy, she going to drive him to station, when the message arrived. In fact, they had started the horse when Minor called them to stop. We were pleased on our arrival, 11:40 (10 late), to see Matt & Minor, the oldest son, awaiting us. We had a very happy meeting & was soon in the buggy, & not long after arrived at their home, corner of 14th & Howell Sts.
Mrs. Matt was very delighted to see us both (Sarah they had not seen for nearly 15 years), & we were soon made to feel at home. We chatted over supper & till after 1 o’clock, & I assure you, there was much interesting conversation passed our lips. Matt is very stout & burly. He looks with a canny way & expression which is very attractive. He carries his early features, but is much changed, & looks as tho’ he has had a pretty hard life in earlier days, & he says he had, after coming out, & for many years after, & even after getting into good positions, the southern climate severely affected him, & the nature of his work, over fires, & hard & close work, was very trying. For some years he has held good positions under railway companies & now he has a very responsible & anxious position, fine work shops with 40 to 50 men, all very throng, shop full of machinery, & a lot of work they get through. He took me around on Saturday afternoon. Work [7:51] ceases at 4 o’clock. No Saturday short days here. At present they are not quite fully employed, 8 hours per day, but otherwise 9 & 10 hours daily. Matt is very much liked & well known. This I’ve seen as we’ve moved about, but a short while in his presence is enough to impress you with his geniality & frankness. He looks very much John’s senior & is presently clean shaven, only lately had shaved his moustache as one side was gro[w]ing very grey, & his wife had been much amused when she saw him barefaced, & for the first time, they having been married 23 years gone Feby. 18th (1875). They’ve 2 fine sons, Robert Minor, (23 come November), & Laurence Herbert, 16 on 17th inst. (7 years between) & what a happy family, all great church workers & the sons fond of their parents & home. It is good to see the influence & up bringing here. The father & mother are a devoted couple & a real Christian halo surrounds the home.
What endless enquiries Matt makes about you all & all his old acquaintances & places. He never tires, & relates incidents of earlier days that makes him feel in close touch with the days gone by, & Sarah & he recalls bygone days that light up reminiscences, which seems to give them much joy, & all about Thropton, Kent Stone, & Berwick as remembrance becomes vivid, then about their early days here, which are tinged with sadness, & experiences all new to me & which I thirst to hear from them both.
Matt‘s shops (Wabash[7] Railway Coy.) are about 1 mile from the store & home. He goes away at 6:30. Herbert drives him there, gets breakfast before leaving home, dines near the works [7:52] & gets home about 4:30. Herbert goes for him. They keep 2 horses & use them both for business, & has a fine 4 seated buggy for driving. On the Friday, he left shops at noon, & drove Sarah & I around the city & through the park, & we enjoyed it richly.
La Fayette is a bonny place, very fine avenues of trees in the streets, mostly maple, & these trees are necessary for sun shade. It is terribly hot here, & it is now October, & quite hotter than we ever have it at home during our summer. I am nearly melted, & I assure you, but for duty I would not write my diary. I just melted yesterday & I really believe Matt was worse than me. Yesterday, Sunday, Oct. 2, some friends of Sarah‘s whom she knew in New Albany, the husband works for Matt, came & took her to chapel. Matt, Herbert, & I went to the 2nd Presbyterian. They took me through their church & office on my way, Methodist Episcopalian, a most magnificent church. The 2nd Presb’n is the prettiest church interior I’ve yet seen. The old one was burnt down some months ago, & this new one was only dedicated last Friday night. Yesterday morning was a communion service comme[mo]rating the first Sabbath service, & what a congregation, a treat indeed. Service began at 11. The Revd. Dr. Hale, a tall, fine, intellectual man, faultlessly dressed, no cloak, open platform. A very pretty organ played a little distance from the instrument on a harmonium shaped arrangement, the operator facing the congregation, a choir of 5 choice voices sat near on a raised platform back to organ front. [7:53] Matt, Herbert & I were shewn to a very good position, & had comfortable seats, chairs, seats adjustable. Lack of decorum amongst the congregation prior to service commencing was very noticeable, talking over seats &c., but as I only learned, as the service opened, the occasion of the first Sunday in the new church, I suppose each was commenting to the other their appreciation, or otherwise, of the new church. I venture to say it was so. Personally, I looked well about me but felt excusable as I am “out to observe”. Well, service began.
“Praise God from whom all blessings flow &c”, all standing.
Prayer thanksgiving, & Lord’s prayer audible.
Anthem, “Oh, praise & magnify His holy name”.
Response – Ps. 23rd & onward.
Hymn 347, “stand up, stand up for Jesus”.
“Glory be to the Father &c”.
Double baptism here followed.
Choir of 5 sung a baptismal blessing, “The Fear of the Lord &c. &c”.
Names of new members read aloud.
Those by profession requested to rise & were then & there addressed & subscribed by assent to questions.
Next, they who were from other churches by certificate & by letter were then requested to stand. The others remained standing & all were addressed from Ephesians 3rd verses 17, 18, 19 & further. A few scripture sentences repeated to them, “As ye have received &c”, “she hath done what she could &c”, “I will never leave thee nor forsake thee &c”.
Next all members rise & are shortly addressed, finishing with “the Lord Bless thee & keep thee &c”, & finally commended to the Great Shepherd &c.
Very Impressive!!!
Intimations followed. This being the first communion in the new church rebuilt after fire, collection, choir sung hy. 222, “‘Tis midnight & on Olive’s brow &c”. [7:54] This hymn preceding communion, usual invitation here followed. Bread dispensed after the warrant had been duly read, after which sung hy. 489, tune Martyn, “Jesus Lover of my Soul”. Warrant for the emblem of blood next was read & wine – unfermented – was dispensed. During the while, the minister repeated 23rd Ps. & several scripture sentences. Prayer followed, then hy. 223, “When I Survey the Wondrous Cross &c. &c”. After benediction, all members & friends were to come & shake hands with new communicants who occupied the front seats. I, as you know, have very strong opinions on the order of this service, & I am happy to tell you I never sat at nor witnessed sacrament dispensed more to my liking & views, & I should like to point out to our good folks some improvements that might well be introduced. Mrs. Matthew & Minor went to their own, the ME St. Paul’s, Tippicanoe & 11th Street corner.
After dinner, all except Minor, who had his class to attend to, took car for soldiers’ home, 5 miles out & where service is held by ministers, in turn it chanced to be Matt‘s minister, Dr. T.I. Basset & to whom Sarah & I were introduced. After service, we visited about the grounds & homes, a splendid institution reared for the old soldiers (& wives) who were engaged in the Civil War, & we also went to view Tecumseh Trail. This is a place where Indian chiefs & tribes assembled to fight Harrison with his frontiersmen, a memorable spot to Americans. Just as we were leaving, we had to halt to let 3 waggons pass, a gang of itinerants & lettered on the canvas side of one of these waggons was, “Arkansas or burst”, very tipical [sic] “Yankeeism”, this.
We returned home by car, frequent service & crowded, & by now it was nearly 6. We had tea & at 7:15 set out, except Sarah, who kept house for St. Paul’s Methodist Episcopal Church of which the household are members. Dr. Basset, a real Yankee, tall & smart, is pastor. An evangelist, coloured, Mr. McClain, conducted the lengthy service, much music, cornet, 2 harmoniums (organ wasn’t used), lady led the special choir. [7:55] Sorry hymns wasn’t familiar, special book. Lady speaker also, Helen Gougar.[8] Evangelist took for his text John 3 & 16th, “for God so loved the world &c. &c”, & on it he dwelt for nearly an hour. The heat was almost unbearable, hundreds of fans plying all the night. The lady again intimated great services during the coming weeks & asked for hospitality for the ladies of the WCTU[9] during the convention which was to begin on Friday night in the same church & to be opened by the greatest of orators, J.G. Wooley[10].
[1] First National referendum in Canadian history
[2] 51.3% in favour with 44% turnout (French-speaking and wine-drinking Quebec was 81% against!).
[3] The Prime Minister never introduced a Federal bill for Prohibition to be voted on by the Parliament
[4] Stacked in piles
[5] Detroit River?
[6] Detroit & Cleveland Shipping and Navigation Corp
[7] Inserted on facing page: “For Wabash read Monon”.
[8] Helen M. Gougar was a famous Lafayette lawyer who blazed her own separate trails in public speaking, writing, Women’s rights, female suffrage and temperance
[9] Woman’s Christian Temperance Union – the oldest continuing non-sectarian woman’s organization in the world.
[10] Famous temperance movement speaker and reformed drunkard