Monday morning, ship’s time 10, home 10:40.
After dinner last night, quietness prevailed & promenading occupied the closing of the day, & most retired early to bed. I enjoyed my rest very much, slept well & comfortable, & arose at 7 fresh, had a cold salt water bath with overhead spray after, [1:21] & at 8 went on deck to enjoy the morning breeze. Just before leaving my berth, the sun suddenly shone through the port hole. I am on the port side & I glanced through to see the sun just rising, & grand was the sight, level with the water. I turned up “Whitaker”[1] & found “Sun rises 7:58” & now he is shedding his warm rays on us with as clear a sky as I’ve ever seen, & the sea most lovely, no perceptible movement on board. Oh, how fine it is. We are just passing the “Berlings”, huge rocks & a lighthouse on one, & just opposite is the land with a light house, so we are nearing Lisbon & hope to get a faint view. We are told that these steamers seldom go inside the Berlings but being so fine & clear, advantage was taken this morning. A good muster [1:22] at breakfast & personally I enjoyed my hot tea with toasted bacon, fine bread & good butter, & after a short while on deck to view the Berlings & fishing boats that are plentifully dotted about & close to the ship, I hurried below to my berth to jot these incidents in my diary. I find it easier to commit to paper as soon as possible, as other incidents crop up & I am desirous as far as possible to record all I can with a view, if spared, to refreshing my thoughts & memories of this, to me, eventful trip.
The forenoon until lunch time was enjoyed to the utmost extent by all on deck, scanning the coast, to which we sailed very close, many sketching the prominent head lands & elevations, the principal one being the old Cintra monastery. [1:23] We did not obtain a view of Lisbon, the city being some distance inland on the river bank. The weather has continued beautiful & the sea smooth, while the air is very bracing, yet not cold, & all, or nearly so, are either lounging about or in chairs, others quoit playing &c., while a picturesqueness is given to the scene by numerous Lascars moving about the ship, some washing paint work, others seafaring, & it being baggage day, many are helping to haul the packages out of the hold. Altogether apart from the passengers’ life, there’s continually something interesting to observe.
Lunch at 1 o’clock. This is a lively time & the fare sumptuous, but restraint is necessary, as 4 “square” meals daily is more than desirable. So far I have felt very [1:24] happy & comfortable, & apparently the provision I made has been chosen wisely. People are now fraternising & soon, I expect, the slight & but natural reserve will be brushed aside. At a very opportune moment I took a snap shot of the promenade deck, & trust it may develop perfect. I shall again repeat it & probably the starboard side next. A tramp steamer[2] sailed close past us during the forenoon & I read her name through the glass: Stag, North Shields.[3] Many ships, steamers & fishing craft, were in our course this morning & it was interesting to watch them. We are looking forward to reaching Gibraltar tomorrow early, & you will probably see our arrival in Wednesday’s London “Mail”
There are a few children on board & in charge of nurses. They have a [1:25] table to themselves & a stewardess in attendance. It is home like to hear them pattering & see them trotting about, & are as merry as they could be at home.
A notice on the letterbox announces that the box will be cleared at midnight tonight for despatch from Gibraltar, so I shall take advantage & despatch this by it, & hope you may feel interested in my progress so far. I shall again post at Brindisi, where I hope to receive your letters.
It is now 5:45 ships time & 6:30 home time, & only now has the first shades of night fallen upon us. I am much impressed with the very remarkable fineness of the weather & how singularly fortunate I have been in choosing this steamer for commencing. It has been quite a May day on deck & no need for wraps. Many [1:26] napping during afternoon in their chairs. I’ve been enjoying Mr. Duckworth‘s book, which I hope to finish in a short while & write him a letter of thanks, & post it on from Gib.
Now, in closing this, my first attempt at diary writing, I desire to dedicate it to you my dear sister,[4] & I feel deeply indebted to you for all your concern & consideration in the preparation & fitting me up with so much that will add to my comfort during my long absence from you. I know it cost you much labour but withall you rendered your help so unselfishly, putting me under an obligation to you which I trust shall not be forgotten by me.
Love to you & all & a kiss for my sweet Comely,[5] & tell him I’ve many times thought of him. [1:27] I trust Willie got safely home on Friday night, or rather early Saturday morning, & recorded to you our parting.
I might here add the day’s record which is posted daily at noon:
Lat. N. Long. W. run
17th 38.50 9.34 352
to Gibraltar 305
You will see that we are due at Gib. about 8 tomorrow morning.
Posted at sea in the letter box of the P&O SS Victoria,
7:30 P.M., 17.1.98
All well.
[1] Whitaker’s Almanack, Published annually in Britain since 1868.
[2] A ship engaged in the tramp trade is one which does not have a fixed schedule or published ports of call. Steam ships engaged in the tramp trade are sometimes called tramp. The term is derived from an old meaning of “tramp” as itinerant beggar or vagrant, and is first documented in the 1880s.
[3] Stag Shipping Line
[4] William is writing to his sister Barbara Corson at West Hartlepool.
[5] Charles Colville Whitehead (age 15), youngest son of William. Born in 1883. Died March 1914, age 31. Possibly suffered from a childhood disease or birth defect.