Shipping on the Hooghly, Calcutta
Calcutta, Monday morning, Feb’y 28/98. On board the “Andorinha” – Local time 7:41, your time 1:10am
I arrived at Howrah Station, that’s across the river, west side, & drove to Spence’s Hotel[1] in the city, reaching there a few minutes after 6. There I had breakfast & a rest, then had my bath & went out to the hairdresser’s, & this was an operation I had longed for, & feel quite refreshed after it. I then rested again & about 10 went to Cook’s office to see what arrangements could be made to secure a berth for Colombo. The 20th March steamer was booked full but they thought it might be possible to get a single berth in the Malta sailing on the 7th of March. I asked them to endeavour to get me it if it was still vacant & would call back during the afternoon. This berth had been alotted [sic] but there were 2 or more full cabins yet to let, but the P&O could not let one berth until about Thursday next as families might in the mean time apply, & they generally took the whole cabins. I said I would hold on till then. Mean time, they would register my name for the Malta. There are only fortnightly sailings by the P&O & as I am prebooked by that company, were I to take passage in any other it would be on my account, [2:55] as they will not transfer, & their arrangements are not interchangeable. There are plenty of opportunities & frequent, & should I not get a berth on the 7th I might wait for a possible berth on 20th, as some one might mean time intimate they can’t go on that date, & this would be the only hope, but rather than wait [an]other 14 days I would go on my own account. Next I went to Graham & Co.’s to enquire for letters, & where “Andorinha” was laying, this about 11 o’clock. Only one letter for Albion & this I had written him from Benares telling him I would be with him on either Saturday or Sunday morning. It had not been delivered but would have been in the evening as Capt. Morgan had not been on shore before 1 o’clock. I next made my way down to Esplanade Mooreings [sic] No. 6 & soon spotted her. She is the first ship below the city & in the Hoogly & close to the bank. I got a boat, which turned out to be the one engaged by the ship, & was on board in 3 minutes.
Storrow first saw me approaching the side & he came to the rail to assure himself, then hailed Albion, who was soon in evidence, & needless to say we were delighted to meet. He looks well & just as when he left home. Of course he was in working rig & it’s not easy at a glance to recognize any of them [2:56] in their working clothes (?) but anything is truly good enough for ship board. After a while I went into the cabin & saw Capt. Morgan, & a right royal welcome I got, kindness personified, & the outcome is I was soon transferred, bag & baggage, to live while here on board with him. The company, he says, is a treat as ship monotony is depressing at times. Mr. Walker, the young passenger, is here also & he expressed himself delighted at the prospect of a new companion. Needless to say I felt very pleased because I would see Albi daily & save me having to ask liberty frequently, & as Calcutta is by no means a place of interest, I should have soon tired & may be moved on earlier than I had planned. I occupy the state room & am requested to simply make myself at home, & it does feel much more so than were I at hotel, knowing no one. After 5 on Saturday afternoon work ceased till this Monday morning at 6. The Eden Gardens is just in front of the ship. Band plays every night (except Sunday) 6 to 7, & they can sit on deck & hear it & see all quite clearly. The distance is not the length of our block in Fountain Terrace. We went on shore soon after 6, & Albi & I spent the night till nearly 9 on shore. We had the ship’s gharry at our [2:57] service. Capt. Morgan employs a gharry for ship’s use, that is for himself to go up to the city, & it comes to the landing opposite ship & remains till night, so I am to use it when I please. This altogether will make my Calcutta visit a doubly cheerful one.
Yesterday we went ashore. Smart went with us at 11 & to the zoo (not by any means good) & was there till 1 – very, very hot, & returned at 1:30, just in time for dinner. Albi went to his own house, then I rested. Albi & Smart went ashore for an hour & half, then about 6 Albi & I went to the Scotch Kirk, a fine pretentious building & an airy interior, the pulpit a double decker. I enjoyed the hour’s service & returned to the landing but before coming on board had 10 minutes’ walk in the gardens. There we spent some time together before retiring. Albi didn’t feel very well. I think the extreme heat during the midday may have affected him. I gave him a dose of gin & a pill, & I hope when I see him this morning he may be allright [sic]. I felt fresh about 7 so arose to write in my journal. It is a very foggy morning but will clear up as the day advances. Just near us is a China mail steamer: came in yesterday forenoon with a Chinese crew & I see they all wear the pig tail, & was much occupied yesterday afternoon combing & platting them. We met Spinks, the Saltburn[2] youth, on Saturday night at the boys’ rendezvous, “Walkers” the restaurant keeper.
[2:58]
I got my 4 packages all right that Cook’s sent on for me. They had only that day arrived. I am going up for letters & papers this forenoon that was addressed to Bombay, also the mail was due in yesterday, so I may get two batches.
[1] Largest hotel in Calcutta, established in the 1830’s.
[2] Saltburn-by-the-Sea, town in Yorkshire, England