Book No. 6 commenced at Rotorua, New Zealand, August 5/98, Friday.[1]
Yesterday, Thursday, morning, Mr. Cobb left Au[c]kland station at 9:30 & I joined the train at Newmarket station at 9:40, Mr. Cobb being on the lookout for me. Mr. Furness kindly delayed going into business & accompanied me to the station, being only 10 minutes’ walk from Hesleden, he getting the Au[c]kland train which would leave as soon as our train got away. We had a very pleasant journey, the day being fairly good for travelling. We lunched at Mercer, 20 minutes being allowed there. The country through which we travelled varied in its scenery: bush, mountain, lake, & here & there cultivation, arable & grazing, many large flocks of sheep & cattle to be seen from the train. We occupied a very nice corridor carriage, & called the bird cage, as on the outside of the corridor is an iron trellesed [sic] frame, fine for observation & cool for hot season, filter & glasses fixed on the corridor, & the usual conveniences. We arrived at Okoroire station at 4:45 – 131 miles, & after a very pleasant drive in a buggy, with a fine pair of horses, of 3 miles through pretty country, cultivated & scrub, up hill & down dale, rugged creek sides & narrow passes, now & again near surging waters, we arrived at the Thermal Springs Hotel at 5:30. The landlord had received a wire intimating our journeying thitherward. Before 6 o’clock we were both revelling in the hot spring bath, choosing the “fairy”. We did enjoy the luxury & loath to come out. These baths are beautifully situated on the side of a roaring torrent, as cold as ice, while, but 3 yards on the bank side, are these hot baths where the mineral waters bubble & gurgle up like boiling water in a pan. There are 3 baths, 2 covered in & one open over head. The “fairy” with a lovely background of hillside clustered with pretty ferns, foliage & trees, the branches overhanging the bath, giving the scene a fairy-like picture, while the steam rising from the bath & amongst the branches & us up to our breasts in the water, so delicious & enjoyable, printed a photo on my mind never to be forgotten. [6:2][2] The water registered 102° by thermometer, which we carried with us from the hotel, distant about 250 yards down a pretty avenue & rugged creek bank where the roaring of a cataract was like music to our ears. We stayed in the “fairy” about half hour, afterwards making our way back to the hotel & soon had dinner, & after a chat & game of draughts[3] & a rest, had a very delightful moonlight walk around the grounds, so quiet & far, far from the madding crowd that any sound miles off might have been heard. The hotel & sanitorium stand isolated, 3 miles from any habitation amongst beautiful hills, tree & scrub clad, & where the larks were chanting their morning lays as we walked down to the bath at 7:45 this morning in our pyjamas. After our walk last night, we again returned to the baths, a different one with a concrete bottom & covered in with a lofty roof, the water hot, flowing in from the hill side (& but 3 yards from the “fairy”). This one is clear water, 100°, & most delightful to move about in it, cut out of nature & a platform of wood around its sides with retiring boxes to dress in. It is about 20 feet square & 3 feet deep. We spent half an hour in it & could have stayed as long again. We returned to the hotel, & after a snack & a “night cap”, retired & slept peacefully till early morning. We did enjoy our bath this morning in the “fairy”. This bath is cut out of the natural & its bottom is soft pumice & sulphury, 4 feet deep, the water coloured strong sulphur, the steam arising from its surface & smelling strong. Before we entered, we arranged with one of the hotel young men to come & snap shot us in our pyjamas as “comrades in arms”, & then we entered the bath up to the breasts & again snapped as “companions of the bath”. It was unfortunately dull. The sun had not struggled out, tho’ there was a fair light, but I doubt the result. This you’ll see by & bye [sic] when the spool reaches you. After half hour’s delicious enjoyment, all the while the bubbling hot water shooting from beneath our feet & rising in globules on the surface from 2 big holes we could let our legs down into, we very reluc[t]antly ascended the steps, I having a can of icy water, which I had got from the creek not 3 yards away, poured over me by Mr. Cobb just before I put my foot on the top step & after rubbing ourselves down with large coarse white towells [sic], donned our pyjamas & over coats, gathered up our [6:3][4] towels & returned to the hotel, where we had a good breakfast, comprising of porridge, bacon & eggs, bread, toast, butter, preserve & tea. We were to leave at 10 for Rotorua Lake & hot springs. I first obtained 2 letter cards, illustrated (at the post office, which is included in the hotel, as is also a general store in an outer building) one of which was for your good self, the other for Mr. Sinclair, Mr. Cobb adding his quota to both, & surely you’ll hear what Mr. Sinclair‘s contained by & bye [sic]. These leaving by the 10 post would be in Au[c]kland tonight & in time for the Frisco mail leaving by the “Moana” tomorrow, Saturday, & you will get them with the others I had posted on the Wednesday in Au[c]kland. I also sent a p. card to Hesleden telling them of our arrival.
The buggy & team of 3 beautiful horses, 2 in pole & a leader, was ready at the door. I got the youth to snap us ready to start, but I doubt if it will be any good, as it was still dull, however, it’s there as it is. We then set off, after adieus to all hands on the balcony, in fine style for a drive of 18 miles through virgin bush, passing on the drive only one house, that of a squatter, & further on a school standing alone in a clearing, wood house, where several horses used by the boys & girls were roaming about awaiting the return home. They all ride, & we passed yesterday a fine girl & boy on a horse. The girl astride with the reins & the boy behind, evidently returning home from school. Some travel miles daily through bush to & from school. We met many Maories, male & female, here & there on the roads, & saw several settlements & Maories thereabout. They are a fine type of people & very courteous & always exchange salutations “Tanaqua”, or good day, & are well dressed, European style, the women in vary-coloured dress, & most speak good English. Schools teach English only to them, & but for colour & feature, you would not know but they were English. Some are rich & own much territory, & cultivate the land to profit.
The country was simply primeval, now & again clearings being made. One lot we passed of 1,500 acres had recently been felled & burned. The big [6:4] trees laying topsy turvy over the vast area, wonderful sights everywhere around. On reaching the first stage we lunched, a 1 ltr. tin of sheep tongues, bread & butter, cheese & celery, & tea. This place, called the “Halfway”, is a lonely spot, wooden shanty, & where travellers halt to get a snack. A young couple occupy the dwelling house a few yards from the shanty, in the very heart of the bush, the husband engaged in felling timber & has a saw mill & 2 or 3 men. The wife provides the tea. The lunch we got prepared before starting from the hotel, & she spreads all out in the shanty very neatly, white table cover, & we enjoyed the spread. We had just been feeling cold & the hot tea revived us to comfort. These folks have not a single neighbour & the wife had not been beyond the saw mill, close at hand, for 9 months, but during the summer season they have lots of tourists & keeps them busy. They have a real prize baby boy, 6 months old, not yet baptized. They never see a minister. Mr. Cobb & I went into the house to see him. He was made the recipient of a shilling which seemed to gladden the parent’s heart. On a pair of steps used for the passengers getting into the buggies, we each nailed a metal plate, one on either side, advertising Bonnington’s Irish Moss.[5] Mr. Cobb represents this firm & looks after the advertising on these far away places. He carries his “tools” with him. We were amazed as we gazed on our work in such a wild place.
A pair of fresh horses, in fine condition, were here yoked into the buggy, & off we set with their heads towards a 16 mile journey, very soft roads throughout the whole journey. One of the first 3 was without shoes, here & there ruts, inches deep, other places as sumpy as a river shore. Frequently we drove through lovely scenery, gullies here of immense depth full of forest & reaching miles in length. These hills of majestic grandeur, a sight so thrilling & stirring, made me wish you had been with us to see it. Often did we speak of you & our mutual friends “by turns”. We had a delightful time & conversation [raw?] racy[6] all the while, causing the journey to glide cherrily [sic] away. We met many more Maories, some timber fellers, road workers, stray horses, sheep & cattle, a couple of fine, well-fed pigs, & near here a box branded R. Furness & Co., Au[c]kland. Soon we sighted the Lake [6:5][7] of Rotorua, a lovely scene opened out here & the great mountain of “Tarawera”. This is the great & historical volcano which burst out on the morning of the 10th June, 1886, & near which young Mr. Bainbridge, of Newcastle family, was killed, & which view filled me with a thrill as I well remember the sorrowful incident & little did I think then I should ever see the mountain or his grave. Willie can tell Dr. Fawcett next time he is in 58 that I am near the spot. He knows about it, & we were not long ago speaking of the very volcano. As we emerged from the bush & on to the lake side, we came near the grave of Mr. Bainbridge at the base of a beautiful mountain called “Ngongotaha”, & the little burial ground is named after it. Here Mr. Cobb & I got out of the buggy, took my Kodak & walked up the by-road, & soon was at the grave side, which impressed us much as we gazed upon the beautiful memorial stone with a large photograph in the centre of the face of the stone, the inscription & account of the incident, & the last words he uttered in prayer & wrote to his mother. I photo’d the grave with Mr. Cobb against the railing on the right. Then Mr. Cobb photo’d it with me on the left & I again photo’d the face of the obelisk which bears the photo & inscription. It was late in the afternoon, 4 o’clock & very dull, however, I hope they may come out in some degree recognizable. I also cut a twig of the little tree growing over the grave[8] & left greatly satisfied we had visited the spot, & trust some time to call at Bainbridge’s in Newcastle & show them a photo taken on the spot, & give them the twig, & record our visit. Mr. Cobb knew the youth well, he being in Hitchcock, Williams & Co., St. Paul’s Churchyard, when he was with them. Willie can tell Mr. Bertram & give him my compliments, & say he might go over to Bainbridge’s & tell the brother that I have visited the grave & photo’d it, & that I shall call some day soon after getting home. My interest being chiefly through “North Countrie Association”, Mr. Bertram is not to take a photo. I prefer to take it myself. I also took a sketch in my little memo book in case the photo does not come out right. We joined our buggy again & arrived at Rotorua, Brents Bathgate Hotel, at 5:50, but long before we got to the little town, we saw everywhere [6:6] around & about, the steam rising from the hot springs & down the gutters. As we drove along, the steam rose from the water running therein. We had not been 10 minutes out of the buggy till we were on our way to the hot baths, 3 minutes’ walk from the hotel & was soon into “Madam Rachel”, & oh, the luxury after such a day’s driving, being cold, tho’ dry, the sun had not shone any part of the day, & in the delightful bath we lay & rolled for over half an hour, swear to come out, in fact when our toes emerged from the water face, the cold seized them instantly, & it was delightful to draw them in again. We had to leave at last. I had a cold shower, & after dressing, felt a fine glow which quite relieved any fears of having caught cold during the journey.
We then made for the hotel, first drinking a hot draught from a tap, & dined at 6:30. About a dozen visitors are here, some rheumatic subjects taking sulphur baths & these are certainly fine & unadulterated, the very atmosphere is sulphury. After a pleasant night spent in singing, piano, cards, draughts &c., I retired to rest. Rain began to fall about 7 o’clock & it is now raining heavily. I hope it may clear up before tomorrow as we have a big programme to carry out. Mr. Cobb is so very kind & so anxious I should see all that is possible during our short visit. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate his company & kindness. He is a grand travelling companion & racy to a degree, & such a crack we had about home & his visit to Berwick, & the return of them both to New Zealand till death did them part. When just entering Rotorua, we saw a group of Maories cooking their evening meal in a boiling spring. Let me mention that Nos. 1, 2 & 3 of the film’s new spool are photos of Mr. Bainbridge’s grave.
In the hotel here is a Mr. Bain, born in Kelso, is in business at Dunedin as builder & contractor, been out since 1863 & is presently, & has been since December, supervising some government work. He has 2 brothers now on the firm of Leggars, Hume, Castle, stock breeders & well known. We soon made acquaintance & is a rare crack, sung lots of scotch songs: Flowers of the Forest, Ye Banks & Braes, Scots Wa Hae, Jock o’ Heseldene, Gin Bring Me a Pint o’ Wine, Within a Mile o’ Edinbro’ Town &c. &c. Now it is 10:20. Mr. Cobb & other 5 are all card playing & now I shall close up and join in the amusement.
[6:7]
[1] Inserted on facing page: “Mr Wm. Leask, ‘Althorne’, Mosman Bay, Sydney.
Weighed July 28/98, 12 ½ stones. [Editor’s Note: A stone is an English unit of measurement equal to 14 lbs. William weighed himself several times on the trip, and 12 ½ stones would be equal to 175 lbs or 79.5 kg]
Mr. Frank J. Sanderson, c/o L.D. Nathan & Co., Au[c]kland, Agent for Huddart, Parker & Co.
Horden’s, Sydney House, George St., & Gipp St. West, Haymarket.
Revd. John Ferguson, Paxton House, Glebe Point, Sydney (Mr. Yule, Mr. Trotter).
Phillip St. Presbyn. Ch.”
[2] Inserted on facing page: “Apia, Samoa, where the Calliope HMS came out successful. Westport coal, Scotch engines, British pluck.
Soft pumice & sulphury.
Mr Cobb, per SS “Takapuna” to Onehunga.
Hemus [Art Studio], 270 Queen St., Auckland. Photographed me July 29/98 ¼ [doz.?] 5/- & negative 2/6.”
[3] Checkers
[4] Inserted on facing page: “Volcano where Mr. Bainbridge was killed ‘Ruapeha’.
Mr Cobb’s desire I call on Peter Mason at Winlaws.”
[5] Bonnington’s Irish Moss is a preparation for the temporary relief of the cough and colds and minor throat infections
[6] The original text appears to say, “raw racy,” but the first word is hard to decifer and could have also been “racy” which was not scribbled out completely. Another meaning of racy common at the time was: vigorous; lively; spirited.
[7] Inserted on facing page: “Memoir of Edwin Bainbridge by J. Darlington of St. John’s College, Cambridge. London, Morgan & Scott, 12 Paternoster Buildings, errata page 75, 8th June 1886. The remains of Mr. Bainbridge were first interred in the bush in a little burial ground on the road to Tikiteri, & about a mile from Whakare warewa. This was so very swampy, they had the remains removed to the little burial ground of Ngongotaha, about 5 miles from their first resting place. We were taken to the first site & saw the spot from which they were removed.”
[8] Inserted on facing page: “I took the ‘twig’ to Newcastle & gave it to Mr T. Bainbridge, uncle of the late Edwin, who was very appreciative & presented me with a copy of the life & incidents of Edwin. Also prepared a photograph of the monument & gave it to Mr. T. Bainbridge.”