Au[c]kland, Thursday morning, July 28/98.
I forgot to note while describing the passage from Sydney that we sighted the islands “3 Kings” just before noon.[1] These are very prominent cone-shaped islands. Then after lunch we passed, close in, [5:83] Cape Maria Van Dieman, soon after this the Captain invited us on the bridge to see the face of the great foreland, which we steamed close past for about 1 ½ hour (18 miles) till we rounded North Cape, a very grand majestic prominence. Soon after this, a direct alteration of course was made & if you refer to the map of N. Zealand, which you will find in Chambers, you will follow my description clearly. The MP who sat with Mr. E. Withy in the House of Assembly is named Mr. Mitchleson.
Now I go back to Tuesday. I did not go into town till afternoon, & there viewed about the thoroughfares & spent some time in the art gallery, a fine building which also covers the free library & reading room. I called at Cook’s also & received a second letter from Mr. E. Withy, & then & there replied to him. They live far off from any commercial centre & very ackward [sic] to reach other than by posting. Besides, steamers to the nearest port do not sail at short intervals. I called soon after 5 on Mr. Furness, the warehouse & office is in Fort St., & we left for home by buss [sic], takes ½ hour to his home, “Hesleden”, Remuera[2] (Newmarket station is only 10 minutes’ walk but trains do not fit in. I’ve gone in twice by train & Au[c]kland station is close to wharf & was 4 minutes from Mr. F’s premises.) We spent a pleasant night, & a neighbour, Mr. Buddle (a solicitor), who had been in & chatted a while the previous night, came across & would have us all to go over, this about 8 o’clock, & it is not 3 minutes from Hesleden. There we spent nearly 2 hours & returned home & retired. Yesterday, Wednesday, was not a very fine day. I went into town before 10 with the intention of going across the harbour & thence to a lake by coach. Mr. Smeaton, to whom I had a card of introduction from Mr. Burgis of Leamington, & who has a very fine store, & on whom I had called in to see the previous afternoon, arranged to go with me. However, it came on very wet & we decided to put it off a while. Mean time he showed me through his roomy premises, once a mill & now called “The Old Mill Store”.[3] A very extensive business is carried on by him in [5:84] quite colonial style & embraces many commodities we don’t touch at home but are indispensable out here. Well, we parted for a while, I to return about 12, when we spent a while, then had lunch, after which he took me to several fine establishments & introduced me & shewed me through, & we ascended the high tower of the arcade buildings & up into the “lantern”, where a very extensive & picturesque view of Au[c]kland & beautiful suburbs & extensive harbour can be viewed, & a very clear view we had. The rain had sometime before ceased & the atmosphere became clear & pure. The harbour is a diminutive Sydney harbour, really a lovely natural inlet with pretty bays. After this we did go across the harbour to Devenport, where coach starts for the lake. We went by the 3 boat & only 2 miles across, however, we decided it was too much to do to get back in reasonable time, tho’ it can all be done in 2 ½ hours, & we just viewed about the pretty locality, Mr. Smeaton pointing out places of interest every here & there. Next we ascended Mount Victoria, on which is the signalling (flag staff) station. All ships arriving are signalled from here to Auckland so all know when to expect arrivals. From here we had a most magnificient [sic] & clear sharp view of Auckland, & charmed I was with it. We returned by the 5 boat, reaching the jetty, Au[c]kland, at 5:20. Here a very sad incident occurred. A wedding party, including bride & bridegroom, had been spending the afternoon over the water at Devonport & returned with the same boat as us, & when nearing the jetty for landing, those below were making their way up by the stairs each side of the paddle boxes, only the inner sides of which has a handrail, the out, or sea, side, without any protection. Well, the steersman guided the steamer too close to this jetty & a great concussion was the result, during which the bride was ascending these steps & over she went into the deep, frothy water, & you may imagine the sensation. Help was at once rendered. Two of the men party into the water & she was fortunately rescued. I have secured the newspaper paragraph recording the event.
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After this I made for Hesleden, where dinner was ready, & the night was passed pleasurably chatting. During the day I had telegraphed Mr. Cobb again, who was at New Plymouth. Cook’s had received a telegram from him after the first I had got, to which I replied, but to Christchurch, so I wired to New Plymouth & had a reply, & he is to arrive here on Saturday. Same time, whilst in the post office, I telegraphed Mr. Leask of Hokianga, asking if he had received my 2 letters & to reply, but, so far none has come. I doubt he must be a long way out of postal district & his letters or telegrams will be called for just as messengers or neighbors chance to be in the village or town where nearest post office is. Population outside the city of Au[c]kland is very small & widely scattered, & distances are great compared with our notions at home, however, I may yet hear from him before I leave the North, only the possibility of meeting is now very doubtful & I shall feel very sorry indeed as I have looked forward with much pleasure to seeing him & giving him all the news about his respected brother & family, & receiving messages to take back with me. I also, especially for his interest, fetched Mr. Leask‘s diary of our West of Scotland tour, tho’ should we not meet, it has not been brought needlessly, as the cousin at Sydney had a reading of it & expressed delight.[4]
[1] Inserted on facing page: “‘The 3 Kings. On Nov. 9th, 1902, the ‘Elingamite’ was wrecked on these rocks”.
[2] Inserted on facing page: “‘Hesleden’, Remuera (Newmarket District), foot of Mount Eden. Mount Eden a very short distance from ‘Hesleden’”.
[3] Inserted on facing page: “The old mill”.
[4] Inserted on facing page: “Mr. Leask”.