Hong Kong Hotel, Hong Kong. Tuesday morning, 7:50, April 5/98. Your time 11:50 p.m. (Ap’l 4).
I posted on Saturday morning a few sheets, as the outgoing mail was leaving that day. On Sunday morning I made my way to the “Union Church” which embraces non cons[1] generally, tho’ it is Presbyterian. Church Praise is used & the service quite home-like. As I got to the steps leading up to the entrance, 3 men were before me. One turned & asked if I would like a seat. “Yes, I should”. He took me to his pew. We were in about 10 minutes before 11. During this time, we conversed on things generally. I asked how long he had been in Hong Kong: 20 years gone, manages a sugar refinery. Mr. Plage, a Scotsman. Did he happen to know a Mr. Musgrave, an engineer? He said at once, “Are you the gentleman who he expects out here?”. Yes, I was. “Well, how strange”, says he. Aye & it was more than strange. He said he had promised to leave him a note & one for me at the hotel, “but”, I said, “there was nothing at the hotel”, & he said he had evidently forgotten [3:19] both. He had, however, charged him to look out for me & give me all the attention he could. Now, had I been 1 minute earlier or later at the spot, it is almost a certainty we should not have met, as his refinery is about 2 miles from the church & he lives close by the work.
Well, he was very kind & attentive. After we came out I said I was going up to Swatou & Amoy for a trip with the Douglas steamer. He knows all about them. He said, come away on board the “Hai Mun”, the one you will go with on Tuesday morning. She has just come in this morning & the chief, Mr. Roberts, is my very intimate friend, & Frank was once second with him. Off we set, got a sampan[2] (boat) & got on board, & there we stopped till 4, had tiffin &c., then we went ashore & a nephew of the chief’s – married – who also manages another sugar refinery, both of which belong to Jardin Mathison,[3] this nephew, Mr. Adam, came on board soon after us. He had been at Church too. We went to Mr. Adam‘s home & spent the remainder of the evening. I left at 6 & returned to the hotel. Now isn’t this [3:20] very remarkable? Well, Mr. Plage arranged to meet me at hotel at 4 p.m. yesterday (Monday) & he was there, & we went up to the peak, 1,700 feet above sea. Mountain railway, like Saltburn, a most lovely view, never saw the like, looks down on Hong Kong & the harbour, & over the shore opposite – Kowloon – this is where the P&O boats go to discharge exactly opposite Hong Kong, 10 minutes steam ferry. Mr. Plage walked me all about the top. Some very grand mansions & cool climate. So far the clouds & mists have covered the whole top till well onto noon. It was delightfully clear when we were up, but before we left, the mist was beginning to obscure the tops. I will describe this more fully in my next. Now I am writing this to post before I set off at 11 a.m. in the “Hai Mun” for Swatou & Amoy, & I will be back here on Sunday morning. I am only taking 1 bag, No. 4, Kodak, & Leeds over coat. The rest I am leaving in this hotel till I return. I booked my berth yesterday.
Frank left Yokohama for Tacoma on March 21. I enquired at their office on Saturday & due to sail from here again [3:21] on June 7th, so unless I chance to fall in with him on his return while I am in Japan, I fear I won’t see him & I shall be extremely sorry. I have registered my name for passage to Yoko’ by the P&O “Rohilla”, sailing from here on the 17th. She stops 8 or 9 days at Yoko’ & this will be enough for all I need in Japan.
Mr. Roberts, the chief, I again met while I was in the “Douglas” office getting my ticket. He took me to the Engineers’ Club. I had been there early Saturday enquiring for letters & nothing; however I got a bundle of mails that had been sent on from Calcutta, this while there with Mr. Roberts. I have merely scanned them but will go into them when at sea. Mr. Roberts is seeking holiday & intends going to Australia, & it’s possible we may be fellow passengers if he can fit the time. The next mail due here is Friday so I won’t get any news till I return. I hope for comforting news about father. Now I will stop here & post when I go out after breakfast. I sent home yesterday the 2 used up diaries, a photo album (Albion) of Calcutta & a parcel films to develop.
Love to all & kisses for my Comely.
[3:22]
[1] Non-conformists: people not affiliated with the Church of England
[2] A flat-bottomed Chinese skiff usually propelled by two short oars
[3] Jardin, Matheson & Co., Ltd. controlled most of China’s import and export business.