Calcutta, Sunday morning, March 6/98. 7:10 a.m. – home 1:16 a.m.
I arose a little after 6 this morning, cup of tea fetched in about 20 to 7. I then wrote a few lines to Rachael,[1] telling her I went over to Howrah on Thursday afternoon. I saw the register, found uncle’s[2] death & burial recorded, then went to the church yard not far from the church & soon found the grave, took a copy of the inscription, also took copy of the register of burial, both of which I have written in Rachael’s letter. I had my Kodak but the sun had gone too far round to get a print. However, I went again on Friday forenoon & got a good copy. The spool of films on which these are, I posted home yesterday separately. Get Mr. Adamson to develop them & have some copies taken. Albion is one of them, & the rest shots here & there of Calcutta. One film will be blurred as I repeated the head stone twice on it. You will find on 1 of the 4 copies of the stone, I am standing near it with sun tape[3] on, which will likely obscure my face, but the sun was so strong (12 o’clock) I dared not remove it, tho’ I afterwards regretted I had not my smaller tape there. I have 2 & the one shown is light & larger & more suitable for strong sun. I told Rachael I would tell you to put them in hands at once & may be she would soon be over & see results, but you may choose to send her copies. I hope they will prove good. I was exceedingly pleased I had been able to find [2:69] the grave & do all I did. Isn’t it strange I should have been privileged this remarkable opportunity. Uncle[4] will be very interested. I shall write him soon. Albion didn’t go with me, Mr. Walker did, & he photo’d me beside the stone. I plucked some leaves & long grass to send & I yet may be able to do so but unthinkingly I put it into one of my bags & it, with all others except one, I put on board the “Malta” yesterday forenoon. However, I am going to take Albi to see the steamer today & hope to get at the bag, & I intend to post all this afternoon as we join the tender tomorrow morning (Monday) 6:45 at Princeps Ghat,[5] not far from where we are laying now.
I’ve very little to say about Calcutta. I’ve seen many parts of it but it’s an uninteresting city. I have no doubt after the rains all will look charming about the European park, & these daily are well cared for, good roads, very wide & watered early & late, so also is all vegetation. These water carriers, “Bhesties”, do it with skins & also hose pipes, with hand over the nozzle to spread. Plenty gaiety & style, especially from 5 to 7 p.m. & early morning 6 to 8, all modes of exercise is indulged in, even to 4 in hand & some very beautiful “turnouts” are to be seen, & the Eden gardens, just opposite ship, is the centre for Europeans at 6 when the band begins to play, carriages around the outside. I’ve been ashore early the past 2 mornings but not going this morning as I shall have Albion all the day & this will be as much as I can stand. He had [2:70] a half day on Friday with me & we enjoyed the liberty. We also go ashore after 6 & last night we stayed till about 10 looking around the native business quarters. During the afternoon we drove to Lord Roberts’s statue & I got a shot at the side on which the sun shone, but intends [sic] to snap the opposite side this forenoon while the sun is on it. I took the Kodak on shore yesterday morning but there was a haze & didn’t venture. It’s a fine imposing object. We visited Mr. & Mrs. Sykes, Bess’s friends, & had a cup of afternoon tea, & was pleased to thank them for their kindness to Albion. Very nice people & keeps up some style. I also posted yesterday the 9 doz. films in 4 boxes (1 parcel). I am sorry to say many of them are unsatisfactory, & I can’t define them separately to you, but hope to remember many of them when home. I hope you get the 2 parcels safely. Get the one spool developed soon. I got my berth, 38, in the “Malta” on Friday forenoon. She is quite full & I had to insist on Cook’s to secure me a berth, otherwise I would enter protest by attourney [sic] & take passage in another boat & sue them for the cost. The P&O naturally prefers home passengers but I claimed my berth having prepaid it in London, & seeing there were 3 available I knew I was entitled to one. This had good effect & cost me neither trouble nor grievance, & I am pleased as the hot weather has earnestly begun, & I’ve satisfied my self so far as Calcutta goes, & I’ve also enjoyed an unexpected daily intercourse with my dear Albi & can part now feeling my anticipated pleasure has been more than fulfilled. I will describe the “Malta” in my next.
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There’s 8 bells just gone (8 o’clock). I hope to have 4 days at Colombo but can’t give you the name of steamer I get there for China. The P&O agent said he thought it would be the “Verona”, leaving about the 18th. The “Malta” goes on to London & I may post a letter by her, any way you can’t follow me now. I shall look for letters at Hong Kong but I am not sure yet whether I stay there going to Japan or when I get back. This I shall ascertain when I see a China paper in which will be advertised the Australian sailings.
We may visit Smith[6] at Garden Reach some time today. The photos of Elephanta has [sic] not come yet from Mr. Gordon, but I hope yet to receive them. I will leave instructions to have them sent on. They will keep which ever way. I’ve not called upon Kennedy yet, will see today. I looked on deck a little after 6 through a port hole out of my room & saw them all “wetting” decks down, Albi amongst them. He didn’t see me. I omitted to say how sorry I was to learn of Mrs. Adamson’s bereavement. Please convey my sympathy to them.
About the lounge jacket, this is not much use so far but I got a dinner jacket made in Bombay. These are the only style “on board”. I also got 2 light vests made for casual wear. Lounge will come in where weather is cooler, & after dinner on board, great style is observed by some but by no means compulsory, & I’ve not used my dress clothes more than 6 or 7 times, but will do so with regularity onward. I feel more familiar now with usage, having naturally held back, taking judicious observations the while.
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I will give you a copy of the register of uncle’s death & burial, also the inscription on the stone. I sent these to Rachael.
“Died 1860 July 13th Robert Gibson, 43, Engineer EIR.[7] Buried 1860 July 14th, heat apoplexy. Wm. Spence Chaplain.”
“Sacred to the memory of Robert Gibson, marine engineer, late of Newcastle on Tyne, died 13 July 1860 aged 45 years. This stone is erected by his friends as a token of their respect.”
1:30 Sunday. Albi & I went ashore soon after 10. Called at the statue & got a shot but it was rather late for the side I wanted. The sun had left it. However, I took one & Albi looking at the figure. We drove on to the Scotch Church. Revd. J. Taylor BD who preached from Ps. 19 & 7th, the same psalm we had sung before the sermon to tune “Evan”. After sermon, “The Old, Old Story”, 174 Hymnal. We next drove to the Malta, went on board, got the grass out of the bag, took Albi around the ship: quite a new sight for him, everything is in apple pie order & bright & clean. Lots of passengers getting their baggage on board. We then drove to ship & during the afternoon we will go on shore again & post the letters.
It is very hot & not comfortable in the sun. Now! Good day to you all when you receive this & a kiss for “My Comely”. Albi sends his love also, & he will write you next mail.
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[1] Rachael Gibson, William’s cousin; daughter of Robert Gibson (Uncle of William)
[2] Robert Gibson (see below inscription).
[3] A flap attached to the brim of a hat to block out the sun?
[4] A brother of Robert Gibson
[5] Inserted on facing page: “Princeps Ghat”.
[6] Inserted on facing page: “Smith, ‘Pottery’. Smith’s son (Mainsforth Terrace).
(Visited the Fort at Calcutta one morning ‘Fort William’)”.
[7] East India Railway.